Sharing the love

2008 Pyramid Valley and 2008 Felton Road. Photo / Supplied

Smart idea. One site-specific vineyard and three of the country's elite producers sharing the grapes and making their own pinot noir in their own distinctive style.

There is just one proviso: the label must show the vineyard of origin — "Calvert".

The Calvert vineyard is located 1km east of Elms Vineyard on Felton Road in Central Otago. The gentle, north-facing slopes lie immediately below the hills of Bannockburn gold sluicings, now a historic park. The land was home to a few sheep, rabbits and briar bushes until vines were planted in 1999.

The 10ha site is mainly planted in pinot noir, in soils that are consistent across the entire area and less than 500 metres from the legendary Felton Road Block 3 and Block 5 Pinot.

"We had more pinot noir than we wanted or needed," says Felton Road winemaker Blair Walter. "So rather than sell it on the spot market, we thought we'd find another two interesting wineries that were really good producers, share the grapes and see what happens."

Superb wine is what happened, but when the other two producers are Craggy Range and the fast-rising Pyramid Valley, you'd expect nothing less.

The grapes delivered are of excellent quality, it's then up to each winemaker to "do the magic".

As Craggy Range chief Steve Smith is fond of saying, "Never underestimate the skill of the winemaker, it's not true to say great wine is made in the vineyard, anybody can stuff up great fruit."

So who makes the best pinot? Says a diplomatic Walter, "There is a nice friendly rivalry. Winemaking-wise we each have our own style."


Recommended

2008 Pyramid Valley Vineyards Growers Collection, Calvert Vineyard
Previously at Nelson's Neudorf Vineyard, Mike Weersing has produced a remarkably restrained, very smooth, perfectly balanced, highly perfumed and complex wine.
Price: $65

2008 Felton Road Calvert Pinot Noir
Esteemed pinot producer, neighbour and custodian of the prized Calvert vineyard. The usual Felton finesse, full-on fruit flavour with strong, dark, cherry layers. Velvet texture.
Price: $65