KEY POINTS:
At a dinner devoted to "rebel whites" in the midst of Central Otago's recent sneak pinot noir vintage preview, there was certainly fighting talk when it came to the discussion of that rapidly advancing variety in our vineyards, pinot gris. Calling it names too spicy to recount here, winemakers and critics pulled no punches when engaging in the increasingly popular sport in these circles of pinot gris bashing. But as for me, I'm actually quite partial to a good glass.
Good being the operative word. I was fortunate in that the first ones that passed my lips were the seductively rich and aromatic examples from Alsace, home to the world's greatest gris. Yes, the variety may not quite be able to scale the racy heights reached by noble whites such as riesling and chardonnay, but treated properly can still make wonderfully beguiling wines.
With its mouth-filling weight, subtle spice and gentle acidity, good gris is a greatly gluggable wine. It's also very food-friendly, fraternising well with fish, mates with mediterranean veg, pally with pork and amicable with much Asian fare.
The New Zealand wine drinking public has certainly been captivated by its charms, buying 38 per cent more of the variety in the past year. Plantings of the variety have also proliferated across the country, rising from next to nothing a decade ago to becoming our third most popular white variety today after sauvignon and chardonnay.
So what are the gris grumblers getting at? "Pinot Gris doesn't express its site - more the winemaker's ego!" maintained Dean Shaw, one of the most vociferous opponents of the variety at that rebellious soiree, but as winemaker for one of the region's major contract winemaking facilities, COWCO, the maker of many a creditable gris himself.
It's true that many of New Zealand's early attempts with the variety were just plain dull, before winegrowers realised it needed to be treated more like its relative, pinot noir, than its aromatic counterpart sauvignon blanc; and quite a few still warrant the oft-used description of white on white. There's also the issue of style, which can range from dry to sweet, fresh to rich, fruit-driven to oaky, but is not often made clear on the label.
However, the past couple of years have seen real improvements in quality and consistency as many migrate to a gently off-dry style.
And as more come on stream, an increasingly competitive market should mean that in the future, fewer wineries will be able to get away with making grey gris.
I was not alone in seeing good things in gris, with visiting San Francisco wine storeowner, Chuck Hayward rising to its defence. "It does show its terroir in New Zealand as it does everywhere else," he countered. "You guys may be bored with it, but in the States there's still a lot of excitement surrounding pinot gris."
Quartz Reef's Rudi Bauer, who makes one of the country's most impressive versions of a variety he considers "modest and shy", was another on its side. "I find it insulting that pinot gris gets bagged as much as it does, as it doesn't deserve it," he said.
The next night, Shaw admitted that he maybe shouldn't have been quite so cruel about poor old pinot gris. His comments certainly stirred up plenty of debate, and if it rarks up winemakers to prove the doubters wrong through striving to make better expressions of the variety, then maybe pinot gris bashing is not such a bad thing.
GREY? GET AWAY!
SOUTH ISLAND STUNNER
Waipara Hills South Island Pinot Gris 2007 $19.99
This fine South Island specimen has the balance that's key to good gris, with a dry and fresh oily textured palate of pear fruit spiced with cloves, and elegant nutty and savoury nuances.
From Glengarry.
OLD HAND
Hans Herzog Marlborough Pinot Gris 2007 $42.50
While most gris has only recently gone into the ground, Herzog has been working with the variety since 1994. The result is a wonderfully textural and gently fragrant dry example with pure quince fruit over notes of mineral, almond and a fresh tang of acidity.
From Kemp Rare Wines, Caro's, Point Wines.
FRENCH TREAT
Rolly Gassmann Reserve Pinot Gris, Alsace 2004 $88
Intensity is certainly not lacking in this creamy textured gris, with rich sweet fruit matched by the freshness that runs through a voluptuous palate infused with incense-like and savoury spice. If gris were all this good, there'd be no need for any bashing!
For nearest stockist call Macvine on 09 579 7455.
