Sansui

By John Gardner for canvas

The time had come to remind ourselves that Japanese food does not consist entirely of a plastic box of sushi, with a dollop of dodgy wasabi and a minuscule tube of soy sauce, eaten on the run at lunchtime in the forlorn hope it's healthier than burger and fries.

Not that the Sansui ignores the staples, but its aspirations are indicated by the inclusion on the menu of whole raw crayfish at $80. We were not up for that, but browsed possibilities such as lightly salted grilled beef tongue and conger eel tempura.

Some listings, such as grilled Scotch fillet, had a familiar air, but the accompaniments confirmed we were not at Cobb & Co. Up came steamed egg custard, those terrific Japanese pickles, and an arsenal of side dishes.

Guided by a waitress who, acting like Grandma, solicitously steered us away from the temptation of eyes bigger than our bellies, we eventually settled for a couple of dinner specials.

The preliminaries delivered subtle pleasures. The egg custard enlivened with piquant, if unidentifiable, bits and pieces was delightful. The sashimi was sea-fresh, the grilled salmon interestingly glazed and the fried chicken was in a light, fragrant sauce.

This array was included with the hasu zen tempura selection ($42) which boasted prawn, fish, scallop and vegetables. Tempura, that Japanese speciality by courtesy of Portugal, can be lifeless and greasy, but here only the edges of a couple of pieces fell into the soggy trap.

I had decided to plough into the hotpot miso chanko nobe ($25). This high-protein stew is supposedly designed to build the weediest into one of those monumental wrestlers whom it is unwise to tease about their preference for wearing nappies.

Simmering in its sumo broth on a little burner, it was decidedly nourishing. Either we didn't eat fast enough, or the burner was a little too vigorous, but by the time we had excavated through the seafood, chicken and vegetables into the noodles, the broth had almost all bubbled away - but the change in intensity of flavour from the top through to the chilli-laden interior had been rewarding.

The service was at first everything one hopes for in the Japanese style, attentive and helpful.

True, our Esk Valley chardonnay, from a modest list, arrived so late we doubted we would finish it in what was clearly not going to be the most protracted evening. Its eventual delivery came with a pretty apology, but the provider of this grace note went home, at which point the service did not so much fade, as disappear.

We had wondered about sharing another course or following the hot pot with a little tea. But kitchen duties reduced my most determined efforts at making eye-contact to futility.

So we left, pleased with reacquainting ourselves with some of the subtle flavours and textures of this cuisine, but distinctly less than gruntled with the oriental mystery of the vanishing service.

Cost: Two dinners, one bottle of wine, $105

Ambience: Civilised. Spare and stylish decor.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.