KEY POINTS:
Herald rating: * * * 1/2
A word about our new dining companion, Gina, and that word is class. Another few words: she knows her stuff. Contrary to those who think we wing this column every week, she has done time at registers, napkin-folding and managing ornery customers. You can rely on Viva for professional advice.
We are at Sage Pasta Restaurant in Mission Bay, and a word, too, about the hosts: Kim Korkman, a one-man European Union of Finnish homeland and Swedish roots, and his part-Italian part-Luxembourger wife Sylvie.
He was a finance broker until they holidayed here, fell in love with the country and married in Christchurch in 1997. Returned to Europe, had son Paolo. Kim then quit the business life in favour of a pasta machine.
People who eat at Sage see a lot of Kim. He drops in on tables to explain the day's specials and the provenance of his produce. Pecorino from Sardinia, mortadella from Bologna, Umbrian artichokes, Milanese prosciutto and salami, we're told.
A muggy night. Gina began with Insalata Caprese. Properly made, it's one of the simplest, most delicious of classic dishes. It needs only the right ingredients and the right season.
Recipe, take one summer, add red, juicy, vine-ripened tomatoes, young green basil, fresh moist mozzarella di bufala and the best extra-virgin olive oil. Weather, oil and basil were fine but the mozzarella insipid and the tomatoes watery.
On my side, ravioli, of which Sage is justifiably proud. This dish was a better home for the mozzarella, just one flavour among many giving prominence to the salty flavour and melt-in-mouth texture of that prosciutto.
The same crew came along for Gina's next course: veal escalope with buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto ham and fresh basil ravioli, to give its full moniker.
She rated this more successful than my choice, a Sage signature: pan-fried duck breast with oyster mushroom ravioli served in a marsala wine sauce. This was, I felt, not so much a happy marriage as a full-blown family row. Duck, strong; oyster mushroom, strong; both swimming against the current of a thin sauce that cried for reduction.
Gina queried the sauce. "Traditionally, that should be with my veal," she said. "This is contemporary Italian food," I said. "Updated. Tweaked." "And what was wrong with the original?" she asked. I had to agree.
We agreed to finish with a "palette of home-made ice creams and sorbets". We enjoyed, weren't knocked out.
Gina and I like much about Sage - understated decor, Italian tunes that don't inhibit conversation, excellent service that extends to the waitress' wine knowledge and recommendations (merlot-like Lafond Lirac with the duck, a lighter Castello del Poggio barbero d'Asti for the veal).
Not sure about the pricing. Hand-made pasta requires work and time; so does sourcing and using those ingredients. But $20-plus entrees and $30-plus mains are above neighbourhood noshery - which is Sage's ambience - and more like special-occasion splash. Even in Mission Bay.
Address: Atkin Ave-Tamaki Dr corner, Mission Bay
Phone: (09) 528 4551
Web: www.eatout.co.nz
Open: Lunch Wed-Fri, dinner Tues-Sat, brunch Sun
Cuisine: Pasta
From the menu: Scallop and avocado salad, apple vinaigrette $15; Chargrilled eye fillet on wilted spinach, sautéed mushrooms, parmesan, scalloped potatoes, cognac and green peppercorn sauce $34; Vanilla bean-flavoured panna cotta, berry coulis, mint syrup $12
Vegetarian: In spades
Wine: Italians and locals, safe choices
