Route du vin

Pierre Brecht Alsace Pinot Gris 2006. Photo / Babiche Martens

A door down a small Newmarket side street opens into a world of delicious things French. First you pass through C'est Fromage, a deli packed with the choicest cheese and charcuterie. Go upstairs and emerge in a French wine paradise that goes by the name of Maison Vauron.

Maison Vauron was established by Jean-Christophe Poizat and Kiwi Scott Gray over a decade ago, with C'est Fromage set up a later. Like many Frenchmen, Poizat had wine in his blood, being part of a family that ran a barrel-making business in Lyon. On leaving France, Poizat's travels took him to the UK, where he worked at a traditional wine merchant, and then here, where he met Gray - a wine enthusiast and former racehorse trainer - when they were both working at Glengarry.

Poizat and Gray decided to stock "what we enjoy drinking", which for the pair was smaller domains of France. They now sell wines from more than 250 producers and are one of the country's main quality French wine importers in a market with a growing taste for it.

Despite being the source of some of the greatest wines in the world, France is still a niche player here. However, the volume of French wines imported has close to doubled over the past decade, with New Zealanders spending more on its wines than those of any other foreign country bar Australia.

"In the last 10 years Kiwis have been travelling far more than in the past, which has given them access to far more European wines," says Poizat of their product's growing popularity. "When they come back to New Zealand they want to experience them again and share them with their friends."

Favourable exchange rates that put many French wines on a par price-wise with local products have also encouraged more experimentation.

For a nation used to the fruit-driven styles of Australasian wines, the first taste of a French wine can be something of a surprise. They may not offer the instant gratification of one of our local wines, but often unfurl to reveal fascinating layers of flavour and texture to those willing to put in the effort, an experience enhanced by drinking them with the food they've largely been created to accompany.

Another difference that Kiwis need to get their head around is France's focus on region: the grape variety often doesn't appear on the label. For those just starting to experiment, Poizat recommends reds from Southern France, a fruitier introduction. "But don't expect a French wine to taste like one from NZ," he warns, "or you'll be disappointed."

SANTE MES AMIS

BURGUNDY FOR BEGINNERS

Edmond Monnot & Fils "Les Saugeot" Maranges 2007 $36

Some of the world's greatest pinot noir hails from Burgundy. This fresh and delicate one from the region's lesser known village of Maranges is on the fruitier side, with a silky palate of pretty strawberry and raspberry that builds slowly to reveal a more powerful savoury spicy core supported by soft tannins. Drink with duck. (From Maison Vauron.)

CLASSIC SHADE OF GRIS

Pierre Brecht Alsace Pinot Gris 2006 $31

Lovers of local pinot gris may like to try a thoroughbred example from the variety's heartland, France's Alsace region. This one is a classic example with succulent fresh quince and pear fruit over hints of marzipan. (From Glengarry.)

THE RHONE REVEALED

Jaboulet Secret de Famille Cotes du Rhone Villages 2006 $23 / Bastille Day special $16

With lots of rich ripe fruit, the Southern Rhone's a great place to start for those making their first forays into French wine. This characterful red from an ancient producer that's modernised its wines in recent years, is ripe and juicy with slightly chewy dark berry fruit laced with spice and chocolate. (From Glengarry.)