Rock Salt

By EWAN McDONALD for viva

John le Carre observed that there is nothing so dismal as a seaside town in the rain. Literary observers (and the less literary, like the one you're now reading, who has done most of his observation from a couch in a seaside town) point out this proves that Le Carre never owned a bach on the Hibiscus Coast, where rain can mean not having to spend $150 on a tank full of water before being able to shower, cook or do the washing, and so doesn't feel dismal at all.

What Le Carre might also have pointed out is that there is nothing so dismal as trying to find a decent restaurant in a seaside town. There are a number of witnesses for the prosecution. It's only in recent times that there've been options in Tauranga-Mt Maunganui, and after a couple of days in Napier you're likely to find yourself back at the place you went on the first night.

Orewa has plenty of eateries if you glance at the Rodney phone book, but let's put it this way: we recommend two, on top of one another, at the north end of town. Go to Kaizen at motorway/beach level for coffee during the day and Rock Salt, above it, for dinner.

Opened by the father and daughter team of Rod and Sandra Wright, Rock Salt is in one of those buildings of an architectural style unique to New Zealand suburban shopping centres in the 70s or, pushing it, the early 80s. Outdoor staircase that may test some of Orewa's predominant demographic. Wide decks. Aluminium joinery. Steeply pitched roofs outside, ceilings inside.

Walls in colour combinations that prove you couldn't trust British Paints, sure couldn't, even if you were Rolf Harris. Around them are local artworks for sale, many of them copper fish just to remind you that one of our country's more glorious beaches is just across several lanes of heavy traffic and behind the pines, because the view is sadly lost when daylight saving kicks out.

Sandra Wright's menu covers most of the bases that you'd find at the Viaduct or along Ponsonby Rd, like a seafood risotto, pan-fried snapper (this night's special), venison medallions, lamb shanks and eye fillet. Most of the entrees can be ordered in mains size.

Wright's food parts company with meals at the other end of the motorway in its presentation, flavours and accompaniments.

Like the architecture, grilled camembert has disappeared for some years; it returns with a Med-influenced salad of tomatoes, leaves and black olives and drizzled balsamic. Mussels were bathed in a creamy sweet chilli sauce; a little too sweet. That retro, even fussy touch shows again in the mains. Superbly cooked, juicy, pink medium-rare as requested, the eye fillet was wrapped with bacon. So was the bundle of green beans. The baked potato was ill-considered, filled with some things of which the overwhelming taste, or more accurately the pungent smell, was cheese. The dish was dressed with (again) a sweetish balsamic and a thin, pale and rather tasteless gravy.

The generous servings meant dessert defeated us, though there were a couple of interesting suggestions for next time.

Short but varied, the wine list is predominantly New Zealand, with an interesting crop of vintages from nearby shores - Matakana, Bay of Islands, Waiheke - and, reasonably, most are available by the glass.

As you'll so often find in smaller towns and establishments, the service is more than efficient or friendly, it's charming. And an extra mark for our waitress knowing and understanding both the menu and wine list, offering suggestions for matches.

Something else that you'd expect to find in Ponsonby or at the Viaduct is the prices. That camembert comes along at $12, the rib-eye fillet $27, a glass of wine $7.

In a town that's oversupplied with those whom the Book of Common Prayer calls "of riper years", who often go out in the school holidays when the grandchildren come to visit, it could put the restaurant into the "treat" or "special occasion" category.

Didn't seem to faze holidaymakers on this night, as the place filled and the kids' menu (fish and chips, chicken nuggets and chips, burgers and chips) got a thrashing. Across the sound system winked Fats Waller, singing Ain't Misbehavin', which the children next to us certainly weren't. Maybe it was the night for another of the great man's hits: This Joint Is Jumpin'.

Open: Dinner, 7 nights

Licensee: Rod Wright

Chef: Sandra Wright

Food: NZ bistro

Wine: Small, carefully chosen list contains some interesting New Zealand offerings

Vegetarian: Couple of choices on menu

Noise: Classic jazz

Bottom line: Burgers, fish'n'chips or Thai takeaways are often the safest choice in seaside towns. In Orewa, Rock Salt offers excellent cooking and an interesting, if a tad fussy, menu of bistro favourites. Like the seafood risotto, pan-fried snapper, lamb shanks and rib-eye steak, prices hail from the big city, too.

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