Herald rating: * * * *
Reviewed by Ewan McDonald for viva
KEY POINTS:
That would be my choice, agreed the elegant, informed, in-command maitre d'. "The pork belly. It's our contribution to expanding the waistlines of Ponsonby," she said.
Which is a noble endeavour for a restaurant in a suburb that - if they bothered to ask such life-defining questions in the census - would claim more gym memberships per head than anywhere in the country.
Rocco. After seven years it's an institution on the boulevard most regard as Ground Zero of eating out in Auckland. Blair Russell and Mark Wallbank, schooldays mates, OE together at Peter Gordon's Sugar Club in Notting Hill, home to Phillip Sturm's Ottos (late, and lamented), then threw everything into Rocco in a reconstituted villa opposite Western Park.
It had been home to several ventures, none of which had lasted much longer than a change of menu. The formula: deceptively casual dining (straightforward but superbly cooked Med food), apparently laidback service (relentless staff training), Russell's eye for detail and Wallbank's charm, broke the hoodoo.
Later they opened Blake St Cafe at the other end of the Strip. Within weeks it was the breakfast and brunch haunt of the stars. Sold just a few weeks ago, as Wallbank and Russell prepared for their next trick.
The new place is in another site with an unfortunate history, most recently known as Bella, though it has been an English pub, French bistro, Indian curry house, Italianate down- and up-market. Opened last night and yes, you will be reading about it on this page next Wednesday.
Tonight, though, Jude and I are at the front-corner table at Rocco, the place full as ever. The chattering classes come for wow-factor cocktails, the well-above-average wine list and a menu that has never aspired to break new ground, preferring consistently interesting, hearty, strong flavours, often with a Spanish accent.
I'm up for a vegetable-based opener, tomato, black olives, oregano, and ricotta on thin spaghetti with a lash of chilli to give it a kick. Jude's brushetta pits shallots, cooked in thyme to crunching flavour-zap, with the nutty flavours of melted taleggio cheese. Sublime.
So now I need to write about Jude's pork belly. That's her meal, which the waiter also'fessed was his favourite thing on the menu. It's tender. It's juicy. The meat, the braised white beans and leeks that surround it, beg to be slopped into the gremolata.
But I'm going to argue with both staff over the best dish. Rarely eat chicken in restaurants, but Rocco's take won me over. It's half the bird, leg and breast, the skin rich and brown, baby spuds with their jackets on too, caramelised onions. Quince aioli. Strong, determined, clean flavours.
Rocco's wine list has always been Kiwi-anchored, with intriguing Euro-styles floating around the shore. It's also a place where you can confidently ask the staff to match: for the pork, luscious and spicy Crossroads gewurz 05 ("honey dusted with rose petals" apparently); over here, Ata Rangi's fruity Petrie chardonnay 06.
Something sweet, something light to finish: the light was a suitably wobbly vanilla panna cotta, dates bathed in espresso, ladled on to biscotti; the sweet was a glass of honey and lavender-laden Beaumes de Venise. Heaven.
What happens to Rocco now the boys have decamped? Easy. The maitre d' takes over as manager.
Melissa Morrow, who took time off from her London job and came to New Zealand to see her sister and her husband eight years ago. Quit the Sugar Club to stay and go into the family business ... with her brother-in-law, Blair, and his best mate, Mark.
Rocco Restaurant & Bar
Address: 23 Ponsonby Rd
Phone: (09) 360 6262
Web: www.rocco.co.nz
Open: Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat
Cuisine: Spanish accents
From the menu: Prawn, crab, fennel risotto $17; veal rack, polenta cake, sauteed kale, prunes and rosemary $29; warm almond and quince tart, vanilla ice cream $14
Vegetarian: Dishes on menu
Wine: Kiwi with distinguished guests
