Rocco, Ponsonby

By EWAN McDONALD for viva

Irritating aspects of modern life: market research surveys. Because they always ring when you've walked up Franklin Rd in 90-plus humidity, opened a Stella and just sat down to the news. Because they always say, "This'll only take five minutes," and if you're fool enough to think they might want to hear, or even act, on your opinion, you're still there 20 minutes later (with the Stella near boiling point).

And they never ask you the truly important things that you really want people to hear your views on, like why Don't Know Why I Didn't Come is the most annoying song of all time, Caleb Ralph is the worst All Black winger of all time and if Sean Penn doesn't win the Oscar this year, it's a fix.

There is some point to this rant and even more remarkably it does have some relevance to this week's column. The nice people at a magazine which I won't name were kind enough to seek my opinion on a subject that I'm really passionate about (almost as passionate as Caleb and Norah): tableware.

You may not feel the same about crockery and cutlery as me. I'm perfectly willing to accept that some people do not share an appreciation for this art form, and see it only as an everyday necessity. These, of course, are people who do not have the soul to discern that Illy tastes better when drunk from a cup painted by Jeff Koons rather than David Byrne, or that half the delight of Pol Roger is derived from a Christofle flute.

So over the next few days I shall be giving rather more than 20 minutes' study to some of the more important questions of life, viz: What importance do you place on the quality of the glassware, the weight on the crockery, the shine of the cutlery, the condiments etc when reviewing a restaurant? How does the quality of the tableware influence the overall dining experience for you? Where do restaurants go wrong? What works, what doesn't work in your experience?

This last brings us to the point, because we're going back to a restaurant that hasn't gone wrong and try to find out what works about it. Rocco is a slightly unusual member of viva's club of A-list restaurants. Apart from the fact that it has a five-letter name ending in "o" and not a four-letter one, it's the only player on Ponsonby Rd - there may be another one in this year's list, but more of that in the near future.

Unlike Cibo or Gault or the French Cafe you won't find a name chef (though his name, by the way, is Praff Rama); and there's not a huge palaver about changing the menu or the style or the tableware every 13 weeks.

There was a new menu last week, but Mark Wallbank, one of the owners, airily dismissed its importance. "Oh, there are a few new things but we don't really change things that much. Some of these dishes have been on [the menu] since we opened. People like them and keep ordering them." Which is one of the things that they do right here.

One thing that does change, and another thing that they do very right here, is the cocktails. "Shall I bring you something?" turned out to be rather a lot of vodka and a rather drunken lychee in the bottom of the glass. An exquisite way to start the evening.

So you will continue to find those lusty, Mediterranean flavours that have been a trademark of Rocco: Rama's take on fideua, the traditional Spanish stew of squid ink noodles baked with calamares, tomato, smoked paprika, mussels, prawns, scallops and cockles in a clay casserole; the roast pork chop, stuffed with chorizo, pancetta and apple stuffing, a splash of garlic and honey aioli on the side for those who reckon that mightn't be gutsy enough.

Wallbank and Blair Russell, t'other owner, displayed a fondness for Old World wines in earlier days but seem more confident to pair New Zealand vintages with this hearty food. Or perhaps it's just that one of them is having a love affair with our pinots at the moment.

Here's something else that doesn't change, and stays remarkably stable when compared with most other establishments: the upbeat staff, many of them old hands on the Rocco yacht. Don't think it's just that we're middle-aged and all these young folk look the same.

Rocco is a fun dining place, not a fine-dining place. It suits its place and its time, and so do its food, wine, service, style. If it didn't, it wouldn't have lasted five minutes at front-of-mind of that most fickle of species, Homo Ponsonbiens. It's going on three years now.

Oh, and one last thing: their tableware is stylish and practical.

Open: Lunch and dinner Mon-Fri from noon, dinner Sat from 6pm

Owners: Blair Russell, Mark Wallbank

Head Chef: Praff Rama

On the menu:

Creamed spinach soup with coriander pesto and parmesan toast $12.50

Roast duck and lentil salad with cinnamon pears $16.50

Marinated half-chicken with quince aioli, baked baby potatoes and caramelised onions $24.50

Warm pear and fig crumble with cinnamon ice cream $12

Vegetarian: Lots of options on menu

Wine: Quirky and adventurous

Noise: Ultra urban

Parking: Surrounding streets

Disabled access/toilets: Steps to restaurant, steep stairs to facilities

Bottom line:

Rocco is a fun dining place, not a fine-dining place. It suits its place and its time, and so do its gutsy Med-style food, interesting wines, upbeat service, style. If it didn't, it wouldn't have lasted five minutes at front-of-mind for the Ponsonbyites, the most fickle crowd around.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, fashion and beauty in viva, part of your Herald print edition every Wednesday.