Rich reds are an ideal companion for meaty mushroom

Triplebank Awatere Valley Pinot Noir 2008 has a light but silky texture.

A large lump of offal was the last thing I expected to see draped over the elegant bar of a restaurant in Rome on my first, brief trip to the incredible city.

Yet, with all that meat lying around, I was amazed to realise it was porcini mushrooms that were filling the room with their meaty aroma, not the meat.

And what a smell.

Like a great wine, porcini imprints its rich aroma on the brain and the taste buds forever.

It's a shame porcinis are in short supply in New Zealand but other mushrooms work their magic, too.

Here are this week's top wines to drink with Paul's mushroom recipes.

2008 Triplebank Awatere Valley Pinot Noir $27
Is it me or does this pinot noir just keep improving?
It's refreshingly dry in taste, with a light but silky texture and a smooth, lingering finish. It tastes fantastic with mushrooms.

2006 Jacob's Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $20
A dense, multi-layered red wine, which seems to beg for meaty-flavoured foods, such as mushroom carpaccio.

2007 Jackson Estate Gum Emperor Marlborough Pinot Noir $60
This wine is named after the gum emperor moth, which lives near Jackson Estate's vineyards in Marlborough. And like many fresh pinot noirs, this wine benefits no end from a whiff of air _ leave it in a large glass or decant for a couple of hours prior to drinking.
Its meaty aromas and cherry flavours taste great with dishes such as the sauteed mushrooms on brioche.