Rice

By GRAHAM HEPBURN for viva


Ever-wary of the theme restaurant, we approached Rice with caution, but those fears disappeared on entering the premises. Rice has a slick, professional look that is echoed in its food and service.

The central city restaurant boasts modern decor with a dash of retro chic and plays the sort of background music that will have George FM listeners feeling right at home. It also has a bar at the back doing good business the weekday night we were there, without inflicting any noise or smoke nuisance on us. Although friends who went for dinner one Friday found the rowdy after-work drinkers spoilt their night.

Rice, as the name suggests, does variations on its namesake grain but with enough imagination to keep the menu interesting. Devices such as cooking food in rice paper parcels or using rice wine extend the menu beyond what you might expect.

After a drink, and to give the menu a good going-over for all the rice connections, Jane opted for the tuna tataki while I went for the special of scallops.

Jane's tuna ($12.50) received faint praise while my scallops were small but succulent with a gentle smoky flavour, but quite pricey at $17.

For my main course, the Korean beef hot pot ($16.50) sounded promising on a cold night and it delivered, especially with the option of spicing it up yourself with a choice of okra, ginger and chilli. Avoiding the temptation to biff it all in at once in a grand macho gesture proved astute as I got towards the bottom of the pot and the chilli really kicked in.

Jane's farmed rabbit and feta Greek rice stew ($17.50) was pronounced adequate but not inspired. We also shared some tempura veggies ($7.50) and greens ($6.50).

We wouldn't normally do desserts but were intrigued to see if the motif could be maintained. And, yes, they do serve rice pudding. For us, this was where the theme came unstuck.

Jane's banana and sweet coconut rice fritters ($9) sounded appetising but were somewhat misnamed, looking more like shortcake with a banana filling. While the fritters and the accompanying caramel sauce tasted superb initially, they were so stodgy they required masticatory powers humans simply don't possess.

My sashimi of fruit consisted of a dozen or so slivers of fruit draped over three rice balls, and two sushi with melon filling. For $9, we had definitely entered the realm of The Emperor's New Clothes.

All up, with a couple of beers and two glasses of wine, the bill came to $130. So, despite the dessert disappointment, we left the premises reasonably happy that while setting themselves a daunting task on the food-theming front, the friendly, efficient staff were able to rice to the challenge.

Open: 10 am to late, Monday to Friday, Saturdays from 6 pm.