It used to be a standard complaint of mine that Auckland restaurants did not automatically supply bread to mop up delicious juices, but most places have now cottoned on to this requirement and, here, we cleaned our bowls with gusto, picking up the flavours and the odd clam that had slid from its shell.
Our other first course was almost as good, a traditional potted smoked fish pate, again with a vibrant, smoked flavour pointed with a caperberry, cucumber and red onion relish.
The menu here has never been huge but there was enough to choose from and it was with lingering regret we overlooked the interesting sounding goats' cheese and haloumi fritters with beetroot, mint and sprout slaw, tahini and pomegranate, and I also fancied sampling the almond and saffron sauce offered with the lamb meatballs.
In the end, though, I settled for the crumbed pork scalloppini. This was a very proficiently handled example of this dish producing a crisp, crunchy coating without drying out the succulent meat interior. The choice of a potato salad to go with it was novel but well justified, with the creaminess of the salad going well with the meat and enlivened by apple batons, shallot and anchovy.
Our other main was a standard but full-flavoured duck confit with an interesting salad of puy lentils, asparagus, mint, peas and roasted grapes that had a muscatel richness.
These choices had provided more than enough to eat but it seemed right to look at the small but select dessert range whose special of the day was a coconut tart. It sounded delicious but a bit on the challenging side for those already stuffed. We opted to share the simple classic creme brulee, which came in a portion more than adequate for two. It was just as it should be, with a delicate creamy interior and a toffee-brittle top.
The service throughout had been sharp, enthusiastic about the dishes, but not intrusive, and relaxed in that inimitable Kiwi manner.
Online readers have a habit of complaining about restaurant pricing but, when I looked back at the bill to compare with one of our earlier visits here some four years ago, the total had hardly moved.
Ponsonby Road Bistro deserves the plaudits it has gathered and this, of course, may regrettably make this review less than entertaining for you readers. As the celebrated restaurant critic, Jay Rayner, recently pointed out, people enjoy savage reviews much more than they do the favourable ones. But I'm afraid I can't help that. We enjoyed ourselves.
Our meal: $183.50 for two entrees, two mains, one dessert and four glasses of wine.
Wine list: A wide-ranging list although, oddly, no Central Otago pinot noirs. A well-priced selection by the glass and a very respectable range of craft beers.
Verdict: Expertly prepared food served in a bubbly atmosphere. Particularly good for big groups but comfortable for twosomes.
