The fit-out by Emily Priest of Cheshire Architects has turned a cavernous tower-block foyer into a light and airy space: the ceiling references the pressed tin of the classic Paris bistro; the upholstery fabric is pretty English orchard in blue; quirkily shaped handblown glass globes adorn the lights; indoor plants complete the picture.
It is, in short, a comfortable and relaxed space with a touch of class. And the food is to match, which I do not necessarily mean as a compliment.
Chef Alex Strobach is an alumnus of O'Connell Street Bistro and The French Cafe, so he knows how to make your dinner. But what comes out of the kitchen at Pilkingtons wants for adventurousness; it's food that reassures you that you're in the right place and they hope you'll come back. Often.
Case in point: a risotto made of buckwheat and sweetcorn promised spiced eggplant and pistachios, but neither element made its presence felt. It was a study in inoffensive blandness.
There was a nice sweet-sour thing happening with some fettuccine blackened with squid ink and served with a creamy saffron sauce, and the big scampi tails were so juicy and flavoursome that I began to rethink my view that crustaceans are not really food except in emergencies. But the lamb rump was featureless and the plating, with gnocchi and ratatouille, made me think I'd died and gone to Henderson.
Smoked eel (by Moko, I assume; it was that good) wrapped in pancetta worked well but there was nothing to go wrong in that dish. A salad of superb heirloom tomatoes with melon was ruined by chopped iceberg lettuce, which has no place on any menu designed after 1983.
Pilkingtons will doubtless quickly become the lunchroom for people who think nothing of spending $80 on lunch particularly if they can slip the bill into "disbursements" on an invoice. As a dine-out destination, it doesn't excite, however. If you want to brave the parking wardens (who were hard at work chalking tyres as we left at 8pm), you will be in capable hands. But you may have trouble remembering much about it.
• Entrees $12-$25; mains $26-$39; sides $9; desserts $14
Verdict: Accomplished but unadventurous food
Cheers
By Joelle Thomson,
joellethomson.com
Autumn red
Elicere (eh-lis-seer) is Latin for "to lure", something this Aussie grenache does in spades. This red bridges the seasons with spicy flavours of nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom and red fruit appeal. 2013 Lavina Elicere Grenache McLaren Vale costs $39.99 from liquorsource.co.nz.
Big bodied beauty
2012 Lavina Grand Royale McLaren Vale Shiraz $119.99
Thi wine more than lives up to the weighty promise of its packaging with pronounced colour intensity, flavour (rich, juicy black plums, figs, blackcurrants) and a long, smoky finish.
Diary date
Sauvignon blanc now accounts for 85 per cent of New Zealand wine exports and is the country's most widely planted grape, so next year the first International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration is to be held on February 1-3 in Marlborough.
Email: Patrick.materman@pernod-ricard.com
