The small but well-balanced menu evoked the comment "I want everything" from one of us and the rest of the party felt much the same. We agreed that, extravagant though it might be, we would have to sample the Bluff oysters, unadorned. They were on the half-shell, huge and so delicious we knew they would be a hard act to follow, but the majority of our other choices met the challenge.
Flying in the face of all medical advice, I went for a salt overload with the salted blue cod, which came with crisp Spanish ham and a prettily presented bantam egg. Although the saline nature was inevitably strong, there was room for the other flavours to emerge.
A hallmark of the style here is that the grace notes really complement the main fare and this was evident in the pickled cherries, which spiced up the signature dish of Duck Wellington, an assembly of duck bits served in a pastry case; and in the sharp condiment nature of the sauerkraut, which came with the plate of pig. This latter dish, featuring tender pork belly and a sort of skinless sausage, was also distinguished by a superb black pudding.
Another style note is the delivery of elements of dishes to the table. This occurred with the mixed-seafood entree, where a consomme was poured around the fish and in my feijoa dessert, which featured the arrival of a juice reduction. Oddly, the seafood was lukewarm and my lamb rump (less than outstanding), was similarly tepid but the accompanying sweetbreads were superb.
Our other choices included baked goat's cheese with an appetising selection of vegetables and a nicely handled snapper and all were well received. But the bouquets went to one of our two desserts - only two between us, as the preceding courses were generous - a vibrant and intense Guanaja chocolate confection providing an appropriate finish to a memorable meal.
The service was personable and had charm, if perhaps lacking a little confidence in its delivery. But this was a minor reservation about an overall experience we had all enjoyed.
Anyone else on the capital eating scene fancy a move north?
Our meal: $381 for four first courses, four mains, two desserts and the extravagance of eight Bluff oysters plus six glasses of wine.
Wine list: An interesting list and a comprehensive cocktail and beer range. We enjoyed the Bellbird Waipara Home Block "The White", with its unusual blend of pinot gris, riesling, gewurtztraminer and muscat. The 2010 William Murdoch Hawkes Bay merlot went down well, as did the 2012 Bilancia syrah also from Hawkes Bay.
Verdict: A welcome arrival from Wellington, which we hope will stay around. Relaxed and casual but with food of some ambition.
- Canvas
