The contemporary Auckland eating scene is heavily influenced by Asian styles and the fashion for small plates. That's no bad thing and it's hard to argue that these trends are not popular with customers.
But there are times when something simpler and more basic fits the bill and little ismore traditional than a hunk of steak, a bit of sauce and some veges.
When the meat is good, the cooking technique is skilled and the service superlative you have a formula that can bring lasting success. The Jervois Steak House embodies this approach in its purest form. From its heritage building and decor down to the menu there is nothing here that you would not encounter in any classic steakhouse anywhere in the Western world and that this has a formidable appeal was evident from the full house, composed of locals and visitors.
There are, to be sure, options other than steak. You can have chicken breast with chorizo and pistachio crumb. There is market fish, crayfish and thyme risotto and a ravioli featuring venison paté. But in such an establishment there would seem something wilfully perverse in not having steak. This comes in an encyclopaedic range with each cut described as to feeding method, breed, weight, marbling and Lord knows what else. The names of the individual beasts remain undisclosed, but you feel you know everything else.
When I booked our table I was offered the option of their signature prime rib, which must be selected 24 hours in advance as it is slow-roasted and is available in two sizes and prices. The queen cut comes in at 300g for $45 and the king at 450g for a fairly eye-watering $59.50. I opted for the smaller and was glad I did. It is not that it wasn't excellent but even if you are keen on meat, and I am, the boredom factor does kick in as you load up yet another forkful of beef. The larger portion must resemble one of those American-sized portions that intimidate rather than excite.
The slow roasting produced a tender and flavoursome result, although I did rather miss the sheer juiciness boasted by our other choice, the Petit Angus eye fillet. I needed the truffle and chipotle bearnaise sauce, one of nine sauce options. Given the old-school nature of the offerings I felt the steakhouse fries were obligatory and they were excellent. In the interests of a balanced diet we chose the broccoli, which came crunchy and enlivened by garlic and almonds.
We had started in a similarly time-honoured manner with a generous and well-spiced prawn and crab cocktail and a clam chowder bursting with that particularly sweet flavour these shellfish exhibit. After the main event we certainly did not need dessert but the lure of the chocolate fondant was irresistible. The pudding element was delightfully light, the chocolate rich and the vanilla icecream was a classic.
My strongly flavoured espresso creme brulee was accompanied by a fragrant little compote featuring goji berries soaked in sherry.
The whole evening had an atmosphere of being with reliable old friends and the service matched that feeling ideally. We watched as our waiter toured the room greeting obvious newcomers as if they were valued regulars, making sure everyone could enjoy one of the more relaxed dining experiences around - if not the cheapest.
Our meal: $255.50 for two entrees, two mains with two side dishes and two desserts. Plus five glasses of wine.
Our wine: A comprehensive list and a wide range of beers and cocktails. We started with a lively Esk Valley Hawkes Bay 2013 merlot/malbec rosé and the recommendation of a Langmiel Valley Floor 2011 Barossa shiraz was a winner, as was the Nevis Bluff 2009 Central Otago pinot noir.
Verdict: The old-fashioned virtues of good produce respectfully treated deliver an evening that satisfies for groups of every size.
