Neither is banchan, that array of complimentary side dishes that is laid out in a semicircle on the humblest Korean table in town. Kimchi is $4; banchan $25. They even want a couple of bucks a head for rice.
It's pretty mean-spirited when the dishes cost more than twice the going rate. Yes, the crockery's beautiful and the waitress who served us was utterly charming, and you don't get either of those in the low-rent places. But my well-informed guests' observation was that this felt less like a Korean restaurant than an Auckland one.
Hansik has moved into the space vacated by the bland pan-Latino Atico Cocina and filled it with hideous elevator music (think George Benson duetting with Kenny G). It appears to be aiming at an upmarket clientele, though if so, the big TV screen at the entrance on which a gaudy video exhorts passersby to try the "more special taste of Korea" is a serious tactical error.
In place of Korean barbecue (they say patrons hate the smell on their clothes), they serve "Korean fusion" food, though I saw no evidence, apart from a passing mention of sashimi, that it was fusing with anything. I left the ordering to my knowledgeable companions and what we ended up with was something of a mixed bag. The silliest was the "traditional tapas" (is there no restaurant that will not hijack this word?): rice-flour pancakes smaller than a beer coaster came with miniature helpings of ingredients (shredded cucumber, scallion, omelette, radish) that you were meant to fashion into Lilluputian rolls. The entire plate constituted two decent mouthfuls. Slightly more substantial though no more impressive were modeumjeon, a Korean take on tempura vegetables, which were pallid, limp and mostly tepid. They were made palatable only by the accompanying dipping sauces.
Yukhwe - raw chopped beef with julienned pear and a raw egg yolk - was wonderful, and a kimchi soup, full of silky tofu, was pronounced far better than the Seoul standard, thanks largely to a solid tomato base.
But the other dishes were overpriced versions of Korean classics: the beef in the bulgogi, a dish of grilled beef and veges, was closer to minced than sliced and rubbery grilled squid was really just a chilli-paste transport system.
In the end, Hansik is a lot prettier than the bog-standard joints but the food is only a bit better. Whether that justifies the prices is debatable.
• Set menus $39-$69 per person; sharing plates $11-$46; dishes $10-$32
Verdict: Not noticeably better than much cheaper Korean places.
Cheers: Bubbles for mum on any budget
• By Joelle Thomson, joellethomson.com
If Mum lived closer to Auckland, I know exactly what I'd pour for her on Mother's Day. She loves light-bodied whites, so riesling is a good option, but bubbles are better. The world's largest Champagne producer, Moet & Chandon, sent winemaker Marc Brevot to NZ last month to tell us about his bubbly beauties. The Moet Nectar Imperial is well named. Even better is the vintage version from 2006; an absolute stunner and not too crazily priced, considering what it can cost to take a family out for lunch. Big brand bubbles sound appealing and Bollinger, Krug, Moet, Mumm, Perrier-Jouet, Veuve Clicquot and Taittinger are all good; Taitt's Comtes de Champagne is costly but lives up to its price. But if dreams of drinking them are supported by a Prosecco budget, don't despair. Caro's in Parnell, has the lively Italian below.
Trio of top drops
Ora Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG, $24.99
Clean, fresh, dry, 11 per cent alcohol and lots of fun. From Caro's in Parnell.
Moet & Chandon Nectar Imperial, $79.99
Since Moet is the world's largest producer of Champagne, the pressure is on the company's winemakers to ensure their "everyday" bubbly has the X factor. This super fresh, full-bodied white is outstanding. The 't' is pronounced: "Mow-et".
Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2006, $109.99
(Served by the glass at $28 at The Grove in Auckland.) It is nine years old but tastes fresh as a daisy, with rich concentrated flavours of white flowers and peach, indicating it has the je ne sais quoi you want at this price.
