We started conventionally with sashimi, unmistakably fresh fish with the customary salmon, tuna and snapper bursting with flavour and with the undervalued and slightly less common jack mackerel. The salad was simple and fresh with an excellent dressing although I remain baffled by the Japanese liking for daikon radish, which I find about as tempting as dishwater.
The vegetable tempura was as crisp and light as one would wish although, being winter, the selection of vegetables was not wide and there was a disproportionately high percentage of onion.
In most restaurants "fish of the day" means one species but here there was a range and an array of options as to how you wanted it prepared. We opted for tarakihi: simply grilled with oil and salt and it was really good, elegantly served with rice and pumpkin mash.
For the next dish we settled on one of the hotpots. The Nabeyaki seafood version was tempting but we had eaten a fair amount of fish and went for the beef instead, which came with a warm recommendation from the stylish young waiter.
This was a rich potpourri with slices of tender beef in a broth and surrounded by udon noodles, soft tofu, vegetables and poached egg. It was delicious and very filling; so much so we were defeated in our intention to try one of the desserts. The moffle - a concoction of sticky rice paste cooked like a waffle and served with accompaniments such as red bean paste - will remain a mystery for now as will the Fair Trade banana tempura.
But what we had eaten had been thoroughly enjoyable. We passed on the sake although there were seven varieties and a plum wine on offer, and the sensibly priced wine list was rather longer than might have been expected in such a small eatery. A BYO option is available on a couple of evenings.
The service was of that unfailingly courteous Japanese standard leavened with a touch of Kiwi informality and it's not in many places that the chef emerges to ask if you are enjoying his food.
It was easy to answer in the affirmative and our whole evening had been an unassuming little pleasure.
Our meal: $126 for four dishes to share, two sides and two desserts with three glasses of wine.
Wine List: A list with enough choice. We enjoyed a Waitaki Braids 2011 North Otago pinot gris and a Ma Maison 2011 Martinborough pinot noir.
Verdict: If you want comfortably priced Japanese food that's a little out of the ordinary served with personality in a cosy atmosphere, then this is the place.