Reuben, Auckland City

By GRAHAM HEPBURN for canvas

It's a refreshing change to be welcomed into a cafe with a bit of friendly chatter and seated straight away. In fact, Reuben's Tom McGuire (ex-City and Otto's) treats you with such easy charm you feel like a friend dropping over for a cuppa.

The last time I was here, it was simply the New Gallery Cafe, but in the intervening period it has apparently been through several incarnations, including Leaf, Lime and Olga's — although the decor and layout have not changed terribly much.

Reuben occupies one of the nicer spots to brunch alfresco in the city as it's removed from the roadside and you can enjoy the play of light through the leaves of the plane trees towering over the balcony and the gentle trickle of the Khartoum Pl fountain beneath — especially when you're there early (well, 9am) on a Saturday morning and the central city is rousing itself about you.

The food's a touch on the expensive side, with the $14 cost of my poached eggs on toast ($8) plus sides of bacon and tomatoes ($3 each) probably enough to get me an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink big breakfast at most establishments. But the food is prepared in a superior fashion and beautifully presented — and the coffee's excellent and the orange juice authentic.

Jane had the field mushrooms on crunchy sourdough toast with sides of bacon and avocado ($15.50). Like my poached eggs and friends, the ingredients were simple and respectfully treated with none of the sort of misguided frills (chutney etc) that can be frightening at breakfast time. And little Sophie felt very grown up being served her fluffy in an espresso glass.

The brunch menu has some slightly off-beat selections, such as sardines on toast as well as the regulars such as pancakes, fruit salads, muesli and porridge.

The service and attention to detail mean we'll probably be dropping in to Reuben for a cuppa again some time soon.

Open: Weekdays 7am-3.30pm, Saturday 9am-3.30pm

Parking: If you're in early and prepared to pay

Service: Attentive and efficient

Ambience: Upmarket and welcoming

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.