Restaurant review: United Kitchen, Ponsonby

Wild boar ravioli with smoked mushroom and pickled cabbage at United Kitchen. Photo / Nick Reed

Address: 151 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby
Phone: (09) 360 9139
Rating out of 10: Food: 8, Service: 7, Value: 8, Ambience: 7

After we had eaten at United Kitchen we had one question. Why hadn't we had to fight our way in through the crowd as has been our experience at some trendy venues lately?

This is a place providing quality food with a character of its own at a very competitive price, well presented with competent service in a pleasing venue. What more do you need? Mind you, it's possibly a good thing the entrance isn't thronged with hordes, as it's hard to find, being a small door on Anglesea St, despite the Ponsonby Rd address. You then find yourself almost in the kitchen. This was actually very welcome on a cold night and provided another individual touch in what is altogether a novel act.

We've become accustomed to the degustation menu approach and this was a variation on the theme, pitched at the more affordable level. The sole offering is a set menu at $49.50, encompassing a starter, main and dessert. There are three options for each course and although this may seem limited, having decided to go for a different choice each, we found it difficult to identify the dish to eliminate.

It was with regret we said goodbye to the seared kingfish with compressed mandarin, toasted quinoa, tamarind and fennel. But it was impossible not to welcome my selection, a thin layer of pasta in the form of open ravioli with a rich assembly of shredded wild boar, pungent breath of smoked mushroom and vibrant pickled cabbage, the whole dish characterised by robust flavours - a recurrent theme throughout the evening and one that was most appropriate for a winter menu.

Our other first course was less muscular but far from anaemic, being a smooth jerusalem artichoke veloute with pickled pumpkin, leek ash and a coddled egg. Vegetarians could easily eat their way through the courses here - we seriously considered the main course of beetroot risotto with a mixed salad and horseradish creme fraiche.

As usual, however, the meat course shouldered its way into the foreground for me and the little portion of lamb shoulder, shredded and delivered as a crumbed ball, was the prime ingredient in a dish that starred expertly cooked pieces of lamb backstrap enlivened by crisp cavolo nero, celeriac puree and a discernible hint of mint.

The strong flavour theme continued with our steamed snapper dish. This potentially bland offering was transformed by the choice of snapper which (as our enthusiastic and informative server explained) came from Oamaru and turned out to deliver an unexpectedly punchy taste, well supported by clams, sweet tiny brussels sprouts, cauliflower puree and the crunch of crispy kale. In a move unfortunately far too rare, a spoon was provided so that the resulting liquor could be mopped up with relish.

The strong flavours continued with the arrival of a rich bitter chocolate mousse with a citrus salad. My own contrasting delicate vanilla and honey pannacotta trembled as it should and was tartly accompanied by calvados glazed apples and an apple sorbet. When you go, and I suggest you do, you probably won't find the dishes I've described, as the menu changes regularly.

In the past I've paid a lot more for food that was far less well thought-out and also far less well presented. We had only a couple of reservations. Brisk table service is all very well and I hate hanging around unattended, but it might be a little bit more relaxing to let the diners chat for a moment or two before swooping on the empty plates. The wine list lacks the individual character of the food and one of the wines we selected wasn't available. But we left well pleased after the sort of experience that you always hope eating out will provide.

Our meal: $150.50 for two three-course set menus and four glasses of wine

Wine list: A limited list but I enjoyed the subtly oaked Soho Carter chardonnay from Onetangi and a solid Geoff Merrill cabernet sauvignon from South Australia.

Verdict: A well-judged blend of a simple concept and sophisticated but not fancy food at a sensible cost. Great for the small group.