Restaurant review: Tokyo Bay, Takapuna

The Morimiso Salmon and Asparagus at Tokyo Bay in Takapuna. Photo / Jason Oxenham

Address: 12 The Strand, Takapuna
Phone: (09) 390 7188
Rating out of 10: Food: 7, Service: 8, Value: 8, Ambience: 6

If you haven't eaten at the Strand in Takapuna as the sun goes down, give yourself a treat and go there this summer. For decades we've been begging for restaurants that take advantage of Takapuna's glorious beach views, and over the past couple of years the council has seen sense and a row of them has sprung up.

There's plenty of parking, it's just over the bridge, so we arrived at Tokyo Bay early for once. It was a good decision, the sun was sinking and, after passing up the outside tables where hardier types were wrapped in blankets, we were shown to a white, comfy-looking banquette facing the sea. And, miraculously, we could see over the large table in front.

The restaurant is designed to make the most of the view, with a couple of
steps up to our table and a mezzanine floor at the back. The walls have a rugged, fake-stone finish, and niches display seemingly ancient pottery and artefacts, while a huge shoal of paper fish swirl around the ceiling. It's clean, elegant, and very Japanese, as were about 50 per cent of the patrons the Saturday night we visited. It was packed. And yes, they do take bookings - even for tables of two.

The menu is long and divided into Japanese and local sections; the wine list embellished with many sakes and Japanese beers that go so much better with Japanese cuisine. I started with an Asahi beer, Brian with a large Oriental sake which, by wine standards, is rather small and highly charged, to kick along the flavours. Our sashimi mixed appetiser was perfect: tender salmon and tuna with all the trimmings plus a side of miso soup for me. Apparently the chef is "blowfish" certified, which probably means Michelin-starred in Japan, and certainly this sashimi was among the freshest and best we've tasted.

Next came the tempura tiger prawns with a tangy, tasty, dipping sauce, which were pretty perfect too; followed by my main dish of moromiso salmon with asparagus, which was a surprise. I didn't even recognise the asparagus. It was cut into small lengths, stacked like a cross-country horse jump, had been peeled, giving it a marvellous crunchy yet tender texture, and was thinly coated in a Japanese-style mayonnaise - it was truly magnificent. The salmon turned out to be a large fillet enveloped in a thick, sweet crust. So that's what "basting with miso" tastes like.

My first choice had been the chef's wagyu beef, which was "100 per cent Japanese premium black wagyu grade A5", but our smiling waiter told us they had just sold the last portion, which was a blow. Over the past few months we've tried various dishes purporting to be wagyu beef, which were seriously disappointing and obviously imposters. This time we were sure we'd get to sample the real thing. If you're keen, I suggest you order it when you book, as we will next time.

Brian's teppan salmon and chicken was large tender, tasty and delicious, although our extra order of soft shell crab arrived later than expected - and slightly overcooked. Together, they left us with little appetite for dessert, which may be why we found our mango mousse and tiramisu rather ordinary. It felt as though they'd made a huge slab of both versions, bakery-style, then carved pieces off.

Tokyo Bay gave us an excellent night out. The waiters were beautifully dressed and fun to chat with, our meals were served on finely turned, probably handmade Japanese pottery. Most of the food was brilliant and the view sublime.

Our meal: $148 for a Japanese beer and a large sake, plus a miso soup, two entrees, main courses and desserts.

Wine list: Wide ranging, including an excellent selection of New Zealand and offshore wines plus a large selection of Japanese beers and sakes.

Verdict: A superb addition to Takapuna's often-disappointing restaurant line-up. Tokyo Bay does all the important things right. Most tables get a glimpse of the beach. The waiters are efficient. Most of the food is way better than the usual Japanese restaurant offerings and dinner prices, at about $75 a head, are about right.