Restaurant review: The Black Hoof, Auckland CBD

Black Hoof's goats cheese croquettes and seafood paella. Photo / Nick Reed

Address: Level 1, 12 Wyndham St, Auckland CBD
Phone: (09) 366 0967
Rating out of 10:Food: 8, Service: 8, Value: 7, Ambience: 7

Authenticity in food is a slippery concept, as I have mentioned before, and not one on which I place much significance. But I admit I was surprised when the paella at Black Hoof was completely lacking in the socorrat, that crispy caramelised layer of rice at the bottom of the dish which traditionalists regard as an essential element of this Spanish treat.

It was surprising because we had been struck by how the atmosphere reminded us of the feel of the original home of tapas. The term has become synonymous with almost any selection of small dishes but here there is a genuine Iberian flavour in the approach. The food is good simple stuff, definitely intended to be enjoyed with a drink and the wines have been given a good deal of attention.

The premises are characteristically simple but attractive, one long room with stripped brick and plain tables and the irresistible sight of those wonderful Spanish hams hanging from hooks. You are greeted with warmth by Will Thorpe who, along with chef Logan Coath, has moved into the city from Waiheke's popular Casita Miro, and his relaxed style sets the tone for the evening.

Your eating choices are totally dependent on mood and can be as simple as a $4 pintxos such as sherried mushrooms on a bite of bread up to the substantial raciones like braised beef cheek with roast cauliflower puree, kale and salsa verde for $32. If choice is too difficult, they will serve a tapas tour of various dishes for $55 and on our visit there was also a Tuesday test kitchen menu at $45.

We decided to make our own selections, a difficult business as so many dishes offered promise. But it would have been unthinkable to pass on the ham. I would have settled for that alone but was persuaded to go for a mixed platter and cannot say I was disappointed when, in addition to the inimitable dry cured jamon serrano, we were served a richly flavoured chorizo and a fat, studded, salami-style salchichon. The suggestion of the additional attraction of a slice of nutty manchego ewe's milk cheese was not resisted and went down well.

The thought of another bit of ham added impetus to the selection of the cheese and ham croquettes but it failed to make its presence felt. But the nut topped goat's cheese croquettes were voted one of the hits of the evening. Similarly praised were the lamb ribs, almost unbelievably melting and flavoursome.

In a fairly ludicrous token gesture away from animal products, we included the baked beetroot with walnuts and dates. This, too, was well received.

We added one main dish to the tapas with the paella, which arrived absolutely laden with various bits of seafood including great prawns, clams with the succulence of oysters, calamari and more. The rice was a little lacking in zing and more of a creamy risotto consistency than we had anticipated but was welcome enough.

There wasn't really any need for any more food at this point and the Spanish are not, I believe, particularly noted for their desserts. The selection was limited to two dishes and we sampled one, a quince and almond tart with vanilla icecream, which was acceptable without provoking any great enthusiasm.

This is, at heart, a place to meet and talk over a drink to the accompaniment of the food. The drink choice is extensive. There are cocktails and an arsenal of beers - including, inevitably, Spain's Estrella lager on tap. But the real delight is a wide range of Spanish wines which deserve to be better appreciated in New Zealand. Perhaps rather too much of my time was spent listening to the enthusiastic and informed recommendations from an unfamiliar list but I don't regret it and look forward to trying some more next time.