Restaurant review: Saan, Ponsonby

Fruit salad with smoked coconut cream at Saan, Ponsonby Rd. Photo / Michael Craig

Address: 160 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby
Phone: (09) 320 4237
Rating out of 10: Food: 9, Service: 5, Value: 9, Ambience: 8

Nat Cheshire's fit-out of Saan has totally transformed the old Video Ezy building on the corner of Ponsonby Rd and Norfolk St. Where we used to sneak back our overdue cassettes in the after-hours slot, there are elegant floor-to-ceiling sliding windows. Inside, the place has an alluring plantation feel with its white-over-wood toning, wide-slat venetian blinds, tables far enough apart to make the space feel cool and luxurious, with glimpses of gold I remember from Bangkok.

You can't book but we were greeted by co-owner Krishna Botica, who took our coats and immediately showed us to a table by the window. But this was a Tuesday and arriving at 7pm sharp we were lucky. Within minutes there was a queue behind us, so don't be lulled into rolling up later in the week and expecting a table without a wait at the bar first.

At less than a month old, Saan is Ponsonby's latest sensation. The food is Northern Thai and interesting and spicy (as in hot). Sister to Hanoi Vietnamese restaurant in Britomart (owned by Botica with business partners Tony McGeorge and Jason van Dorsten), it's the brainchild of Hanoi's former wok chef, Lek Trirattanavatin. He has based much of this menu on the Thai Lanna and Isaan regions' cuisine he grew up with. It's certainly different from anything I've eaten in Auckland, and an obvious magnet for the feeding frenzy that accompanies almost any Ponsonby opening.

So, in drift the local celebrities. Michael Stiassny plus a couple of teenagers, Sally Ridge and entourage, Luke Dallow, clothes designer Andrea Moore and friends, all drawn by the joy of being among the first to sample The Next Big Thing.

Managing all of this is a team of waiters and runners who looked hassled from the start. We were left sitting at our table for at least 10 minutes before we hailed someone and asked for menus. Our effort to score beer and wine meant a trip to the bar. Again, we were sent back to wait until our waiter arrived, looking a little puffed. "Sorry. This is only my third night, and it's busy!"

The menu is divided into four sections: small plates (Khang Thang $13-$15), larger plates (Jarn Rerm $12-$24), main courses (Jarn Lak $14-$28) and sides (Khong Kiang, $6-$12). All are designed to be shared.

After much consideration, and a couple of questions, we were ready to order but, again, our waiter had disappeared; again, we foot-tripped a runner. Again, our waiter disappeared, this time to find her pad and pen.

But when our food finally started to arrive, all was forgiven. No matter that the first dish was not the house smoked fish and kumara in pastry we had ordered, but the grilled banana leaf stuffed with market fish which had to go back. Meanwhile, we tucked into the best soft-shell crab I've eaten in New Zealand. With its crunchy coat and juicy, tender flesh, and the flavours kicked along by pickled crab and coconut sauce, it came together like a dream.

Next to arrive was pork belly, which brought different taste sensations to what must surely be the most popular meal in town, while the beef cheeks had a texture so succulent and a taste so electric we were won over. Our other choice, the larb ped, a wok-seared spicy duck and mint salad with ground, toasted rice, was a favourite of the men in our group. Only the crackling, which they'd warned us was different from the New Zealand version, was disappointing. Airy and dry, it was probably the only tasteless thing we tried all night.

Our side of vertically sliced cucumber was, like the beer, a fantastic refresher between mouthfuls of the hottest Thai food I've ever eaten.

And so to dessert. There were only three, and they were all sensational. For me the tub tim grob, which starred caramelised water chestnuts, palm fruit, jackfruit and coconut, was another "best ever". The banana fritters were great and even though the mango with sticky rice was least favoured, in other company it would have been a cracker too.

It was an outstanding meal slightly spoiled by the service. Chef Lek Trirattanavatin isn't going anywhere and the wait staff will surely improve!

Our meal: $221.50 for five; Singha, Far Eastern Pilsner and Chiang Rai Rule beers, a glass of wine plus two small and one medium plate, a large bowl of sticky rice balls, three main courses and three desserts.

Wine list: A large selection of Asian beers and an array of exotic cocktails are backed by the best of New Zealand, Australian and Northern Hemisphere wines at reasonable prices.

Verdict: Just when we think we've tried every Asian cuisine, along comes Saan with new tastes and textures from Thailand that are truly thrilling. The dining room is cool and elegant and prices are slightly lower than usual, which is a bonus. Don't miss it.