Phone: (09) 377 1884
By the time this much-loved city bistro, devastated by a kitchen fire in January, reopened in September, the street had undergone a facelift. It now has outdoor tables, which will be in heavy demand as the evenings lengthen.
The refit is as classy as the pre-fire decor: handsome dome lampshades; tabletops thoughtfully cushioned, so you can't hear an oyster fork drop; crisp, white tablecloths. A large mirror on one of the dark walls lends a sense of space to the small room.
As we took our seats, I felt glad to be back, comfortable in the knowledge that we were in safe hands. The Professor, poor dear, endures a lot of second-rate meals as my dining companion and I was looking forward to repaying her loyal service with one of the best. So it's slightly distressing to report that the experience was rather average.
In a restaurant long noted for peerless service, details jarred: tap water slopped unbidden into a glass half-full of $10-a-bottle sparkling; a wine list, declined once, delivered for a second time; they got one side dish wrong (and the one they delivered was of blanched greens so plain as to seem raw); we had to ask for a dessert menu after a 20-minute wait (although that is, admittedly, better than the industry standard, which is to menace you with it before the main-course dishes have been cleared).