Strictly speaking it's FISH, not Fish. Perhaps it is shouting its own praises or distinguishing itself from Fish, the upscale chippy Tony (Harbourside) Adcock had in Kingsland.
But when you sit down at FISH (hereinafter Fish), you are likely to say: "Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kingsland any more", particularly if your dining companion is named Toto. On the first floor of what would be the foredeck of the Hilton if the Hilton were a ship, which it almost is, the dining room has the best view of any waterfront restaurant in Auckland, including a deck out front, which you should book for if the weather ever gets warmer.
Fish replaced White about five years ago, under the helmsmanship of Simon Gault, and his erstwhile empire the Nourish Group remains in charge: the executive chef is Gareth Stewart and head chef Fraser Shenton. The latter was not in the kitchen the night we visited, but the woman who was, Archana Kurup, is plainly up to the task of flying solo.
The places has been refurbished to great advantage. Perhaps because of the commitment to the name White, it used to have a look as cold as an operating theatre, which was great in summer but less welcoming in winter. The new colour scheme has earthier tones, though why someone didn't take a sledgehammer to that silly bar that divides the room is beyond me.
