Restaurant review: Coast, Orewa

The surf and turf mash paddle at Coast, Orewa. Photo / Supplied

Address: 342 Hibiscus Coast Highway, Orewa
Phone: (09) 421 1016
Rating out of 10: Food: 8, Service: 8, Value: 8, Ambience: 7

We'd heard about Coast, and how good it was, since it opened a few months ago, but the description on its website of of "bites and brews" by Deep Creek Brewing Co sounded too much like a brewery than a proper restaurant to entice us in. However, when we popped in for a look one afternoon we were impressed. At last here was an Orewa restaurant with a decent view of the beach, while the decor, with its solid wood finish, cosy banquettes, seaside cushions, plus the friendly, professional staff, had us hooked. We tried to book for dinner that weekend but Dan, one of the owners, explained they took reservations only for five or more. We decided to take a chance.

It was Saturday and the place was humming by 6.30 when we arrived. Indeed, we had to talk hard to score a table upstairs. But after a five-minute wait the maitre d' found us a spot in the corner that was just perfect.

The young team of waiters was well trained, energetic and knew their way round the menu, wine and beer lists. Nothing was too much trouble. It was their guidance that steered us towards one of the best platters I've ordered. The "surf and turf mash paddle", which is meant for two, was plenty for all of us as a starter.

The high point, in a series of great acts, was the barbecue ribs. Succulent and smothered in a delicious Jack Daniels-inspired sauce, the meat was so tender it fell into our mouths. It wasn't too fatty, there were plenty of ribs to share - and this was just the beginning. The chef had managed to pull off crispy prawns that were crisp and succulent at the same time, the generous stack of calamari was tender and tasty, as was the chilli and lime pulled pork. And for those who wanted to stick with the platter all through, there's a stack of fresh (but not home-made) tortillas and bowls of tomato hummus and mango and jalapeno aioli to turn it into a substantial meal on its own.

Luckily we hadn't ordered our main courses so, after much deliberation, we women moved on to small bites - arancini balls ($13) stuffed with mushroom and pea risotto that, when cut open, revealed a heart of melting mozzarella cheese.

Meanwhile, my special chicken and prawn salad was beautifully seasoned, tasty and great value at $18.50.

The men were happy to sample the bigger bites, which included grilled angus scotch fillet cooked to a perfect medium rare, and the pork scotch roulade, wrapped in bacon and served with ricotta, spinach and red roasted pepper and served on a bed of wilted kale. Both were excellent and cost city prices at $34.50 and $32.50 respectively.

One of the highlights of eating at Coast is the sauces they serve with almost every meal. We tried at least five different flavours over three courses. There was the chakalaka sauce poured over the ribs (and the black truffle confit potato that accompanied it) and a delicate mango and jalapeno aioli served with the wraps and crostini, a grainy mustard veloute for the meat and a chilli and lime dip alongside the calamari. They all worked beautifully.

Only when we hit our desserts did the meal take a slight downward turn: I simply adored the battered and fried crispy banana turon part of the trio of desserts, however, its partners of Nutella and Oreo tiramisu and rocky road sundae failed to appeal to me. Brian's chocolate indulgence was also far from thrilling, but by then he was full to the brim.

By now Coast was heaving with party people and most of the other diners had disappeared so we headed off, congratulating ourselves on finding a superb restaurant so close to home.

The small craft beer company runs three operations altogether - Coast in Orewa, Cove in Waiheke and Deep Creek brews and eats in Browns Bay. All three produce their own range of beers on site, with names including The Dominatrix, Lotus and Dusty Gringo. There's also a short but excellent and almost exclusively New Zealand wine list, plus a similar down-to-earth but satisfying menu.

Our meal: $244 for five glasses of wine, One Tasting Platter, one Small Bite, two Bigger Bites, one daily special, two desserts and a coffee.

Wine list: Expertly chosen, just long enough to be interesting, mainly local with a few flash highlights from Europe and the Americas. Everything is available by the glass.

Verdict: It would be so easy to write off Coast as just another booze barn. But no, this is a well-thought-out operation that takes great pride in serving beautifully cooked and flavoured food alongside its craft beer. The young waiters are well trained, helpful and unfailingly polite. Try it for lunch or an early dinner when the view stretches from Orewa to Coromandel.

- Canvas