KEY POINTS:
A bottle of your very worst Marlborough sauvignon blanc please," I asked the dead-eyed wine shop assistant, who emerged momentarily from his post-Christmas catatonic state to raise an eyebrow at my request.
My recent trawl round the liquor stores and supermarkets in search of terrible wines was not some kind of masochistic exercise in aversion therapy. Rather, my mission was to get a truer idea of the real quality of the 2008 vintage that was out there on the shelves, rather than the rose-tinted vision it's easy for a wine writer to arrive at if relying solely on the more superior samples we tend to be sent.
I'd assumed there were quite a few wines that their makers would certainly not want me to see, destined for the cut-price end of the market. Here, price rather than quality is key.
From my tastings so far I'd deduced that good producers have definitely made very sound Marlborough sauvignons in 2008, while there are quite a few ordinary examples around that lack intensity. However, after the tales of the troubles in Marlborough, where many growers got caught out trying to ripen huge crops in between deluges of dilution and rot-causing rain, I felt I'd maybe not seen the whole picture.
A more blighted view of the fruits of the last vintage was provided by some of the retailers I spoke to, who said they'd been offered a fair few shockers.
So what did I find? There were certainly sorry specimens. But while there were worryingly old and tired vintages still to be had, there was not as much lower-quality, cut-price 2008 sav cowering behind anonymous labels as I'd anticipated.
The worst may yet be to come, according to the winemakers. Much of the inferior stuff could still be in-tank, likely to be released soon to make way for 2009 vintage that's just months away.
Tip it, don't ship it, is what winemakers have been urging those left with litres of insipid sauvignon. While it won't be great to have it gracing our shelves, it will be more dangerous if this finds its way abroad. New Zealand has largely built its international reputation on its vibrant, flavourful, premium quality sauvignons. If a large harvest prompts less than exciting examples to be unleashed upon export markets, this could become tarnished.
Give us another smaller, high-quality vintage and wineries will need to get top dollar again for their wines. But when you've hit the bottom, it's very difficult to claw your way back to the top.
Pick of the 2008 crop
There have been a number of fabulous wines that emerged from the 2008 vintage. Here are some worth seeking out:
Stylish sauvignon
TerraVin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $24.50
While better known for their fine hillside pinots, TerraVin have been making some stellar sauvignons, with their 2008 one of my favourites of the vintage. This manages to combine an elegance and texture often lacking in Marlborough sauvignon, with the region's classic vibrant notes of passion fruit and herb.
(From fine wine stores.)
Singular blend
Bellbird Spring Home Block Waipara White 2008 $29
After a sipping through a sea of sauvignon, it's great to come across something quite different, such as this single vineyard blend of pinot gris.
Riesling, muscat and gewurztraminer from new Waipara winery, Bellbird Spring. Making just the one wine, this promising first release has fresh and mouth-filling peach and pear fruit, nuances of blossom, gingery spice and citrus peel.
(From The Wine Vault.)
Sweet success
Framingham Marlborough Riesling Auslese 2008 #2 $39
Rot caused by the dampness of the 2008 vintage may have caused havoc with sauvignon, but on the right grapes at the right time it can create exceptional sweet wines, as illustrated by the recent release of a sextet of stickies from Framingham. The wonderfully pure fruit, floral notes, orange zest and lovely balance between sweetness and acidity make this one my favourite.
(Exclusively from Wine Direct.)
