Refinery Cafe, Birkenhead

By ELEANOR BLACK for canvas

Having just moved to the North Shore, I am always on the lookout for new sources of coffee and food which is better than I can produce at home. Which, given my cooking skills, isn't really asking much.

I drive every day past the unfortunately named Refinery Cafe, cunningly tucked in a business complex in Mokoia Rd, so it seemed a convenient place to continue my important research.

The name, I presume, is a reference to the big, pink monstrosity which is the Chelsea Sugar Refinery, not actually visible from the cafe but an icon for locals nonetheless. The decor, however, is an odd mix of Native American blankets, pottery and paintings against a glaring electric blue backdrop.

My mother ordered the power breakfast ($13), the usual assortment of eggs, bacon, tomato, hash browns, sausage and toast. It was pretty much what you would expect, right down to the cookie-cutter hash browns from a box, which were not even as good as what I could defrost and grill at home. Really, how hard is it for people who are trained in the culinary arts to grate some potato, make cakes and fry them?

Mother didn't mind the hash browns, but was disappointed that her toast (three thin white slices) arrived without butter or condiments.

My eggs benedict ($12) was unabashedly middle-of-the-road. The eggs were nicely poached, the sourdough bread a fine example of its type, the bacon okay, but the hollandaise was too watery and thin, and lacked the zip that a squeeze of lemon juice provides.

Our flat whites ($3 each) were far better than average, smooth-flavoured, strong, with thick foam on top. They were worth coming back for, but next time I think I'll skip the food and get my coffee to go.

Ambience: Nice in the enclosed patio, not so nice inside.

Service: Minimal, but friendly enough.

Parking: Plenty. This is the 'burbs, after all.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.