Should we be using "reef-friendly" sunscreen. Photo / Getty Images
Should we be using "reef-friendly" sunscreen. Photo / Getty Images
Every Kiwi has grown up with the message “slip, slop, slap and wrap” rightly drummed into them since their preschool days.
The sticky sand-gathering feel and iconic smell of sunscreen are synonymous with summer days spent at the beach eating fish and chips after a swim.
But in recent years, doubts have been raised by watchdogs such as Consumer NZ over whether commonly-used sunblock brands actually do what they say on the label, and by researchers over whether those chemicals are just as bad for us, and the environment, as the effects of the sun’s rays.
The founders of Aussie sun care brand Standard Procedure know a thing or two about sun protection and what we should be looking for on the label.
Founders Dion Agius, a professional surfer, and Zepha Jackson, who describes herself as an “advocate for transparent manufacturing” wanted to create a clean and simple sunscreen without “nasty chemicals” that still works to keep the sun at bay.
It’s important to know the difference between chemical and physical sunscreen. Chemical sunscreen absorbs into the skin, absorbs UV rays and contains active ingredients, while physical sunscreen, like Standard Procedure, forms a barrier on the skin and reflects the sun’s rays.
Making sunscreen is in Jackson’s blood. The daughter of sunscreen manufacturers, she spent most of her childhood hanging out in the factory. After working in fashion for several years, she returned to the fold during Covid-19 and realised her expertise in that industry would lend itself to making sunscreen as well.
As for Agius’ involvement, surfers know better than anyone how important it is to have a sunscreen that works.
“As a pro surfer, you can sometimes spend up to five or six hours in the sun at a time while shooting, and usually in the most brutal midday sunny conditions,” he says.
“So as surfers we really need something robust that can handle those conditions.”
So, what qualifies a sunscreen to claim that “ethically made” label - and how does it differ from the way other sunscreens are made?
Dion Agius and Zepha Jackson, the founders of Standard Procedure. Photo / Supplied
Jackson says there’s a “real disconnect” between products and the makers of those products.
“A lot of people don’t understand that a T-shirt or any tangible object isn’t just printed out. There’s many many hands in the making of the thread, then the fabric, the dying, then finally the garment - there is a huge process that happens before it arrives at your door or on the shelf of a store. And that doesn’t differ for the cosmetics or sun care industry,” she says.
“So many products are imported into Australia, which makes knowing the true origin of all the components and manufacturers really difficult.”
The factory producing Standard Procedure is completely solar-powered and run by three generations of her family, meaning they can be involved in and understand each part of the process.
You might also spot the label “reef-friendly” on your sunscreen these days, but what does that mean?
But despite the fact that some countries, including Hawaii and some areas of Thailand, have banned those ingredients, there’s no real certification for “reef-friendly” status.
“Unfortunately this means the door is open to a lot of greenwashing,” Jackson explains - any beauty brand can slap a “reef-friendly” label on the bottle, but it’s essentially a marketing term.
Standard Procedure was created by manufacturing expert Zepha Jackson and pro surfer Dion Agius. Photo / Supplied
Oxinoxate, PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid) and parabens are the other chemicals to watch out for. Even zinc-based sunscreens, which are marketed as reef-safe, can cause bleaching, according to research.
So, hunting for an environmentally friendly sunscreen “requires the effort to dig deep and read the fine print”, Jackson adds.
“I truly believe that people want to spend their money more consciously and to use what’s good for them while choosing better options for the planet. It really comes down to just getting the word out there.”
“For prevention against premature ageing and sun damage to your skin’s appearance, but even more importantly for the really serious stuff. Skin cancer is no joke and extremely common unfortunately, especially in Australia and New Zealand, so putting on a sunscreen is something we should all be adding to our morning routine as a non-negotiable,” Jackson says.
