Red

By JAN CORBETT for canvas


You can tell you live in a rugby-mad nation when the Ponsonby restaurant you were in a month or so ago that was pumping was on this, a return visit, strangely abandoned for a Saturday night.

Thankfully the chic ambience was maintained by the fact that among the other five diners was a prominent lawyer and a television star, kindred souls united in our belief that the All Blacks thrashing the Wallabies was not the most important thing in our lives that night. Although, of course, we were pleased.

The first thing you notice about Red, is how red its interior is, which on these winter nights can't help but draw you into its warming embrace.

The second is the ultra-suave shaven-headed maitre d' whose exotic accent sings of his Indian birth and Greek upbringing (I just had to ask) and has a seductively hypnotic effect as he recites the list of specials - of which there were way too many for us to remember even at the time.

We declined the welcoming offer of a peach schnapps and champagne, but gratefully nibbled on the complimentary crostini spread with a tomato pesto, while we made our selections and, from glasses the size of goldfish bowls, sipped our Oyster Bay chardonnay ($36).

Terrie began with the crab and snapper ceviche ($16.50) which, although beautifully stacked on half a tomato, she found uninspiring, as though it had been waiting for her in the refrigerator for too long. Ken delighted in his wood-roasted calamari ($16.50), topped with a mussel and a tiger prawn, and I ordered one of the many specials - warm scallop and baby squid salad ($16.50) with a bitter-sweet balsamic and basil dressing. It was truly divine.

I followed that with the equally pleasing spinach and lentil-stuffed shoulder lamb ($26.50) accompanied with a mould of cauliflower and potato gratin. Although edging more towards well-done than you expect with lamb these days, it was mouth-melting and beautifully presented on Red's customary large oval platters.

Terrie ordered the Golden Dish ($38) which tonight was beef eye-fillet with a truffle-infused jus and a crab mash rather alarmingly adorned with crab claws to make it look like a Viking hat. Overall, she said it more than compensated for her lacklustre entree. She and I accompanied our main courses with a glass of the vintage selection Tasman Bay pinot noir ($9.50).

From the specials list, Ken had the broad bill ($26.50) which was happily pink in the middle, and with which he was very pleased. He accompanied that with a glass of Danzante Pinot Grigio ($8).

They moved on to desserts - Ken the trifle with vanilla creme, raspberry compote and amaretto panetone and Terrie the verona chocolate and hazelnut tart, which she declared the highlight of her meal.

So Red is now a new favourite, although I would avoid the ceviche. Midweek the restaurant hosts opera evenings and, on Sundays, the owner Kal Bouhdoud cooks Moroccan. And unless you're planning a night out that coincides with a rugby match, I recommend booking.


Cost: Dinner for three with wine, $247.50

Ambience: Ponsonby chic

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