Red

By EWAN MCDONALD for viva


Casablanca, that's what comes to mind when someone mentions Morocco. Bogey and Bergman and "Play it once, Sam. For old times' sake."

Kal Bouhdoud, owner and host of Red, is also from Morocco (he's now offering its wonderful, spicy North African stews - tagines - on Sunday nights). Red's been going three or four years and you'll struggle to get a table at 7.30 on most nights. In a part of town that often appears restauranted out, in a part of town where bars and cafes are a fashion accessory (whatever happened to Woody's? whatever happened to pashminas?) why has this place succeeded?

Because Bouhdoud, showman and maitre d', seems to genuinely welcome every diner. Because he treats his diners as guests. Because his chef keeps his eye on the ball. Because his restaurant is - apart from a couple of quibbles - consistent, reliable, fun. Here, the fundamental things apply as time goes by.

When Red opened it had a couple of advantages over most of the restaurants in the city. One was in the kitchen: Jeremy Schmid, who had banged his pots through the wall from Vinnies. The other was out front: the knowledgeable and hospitable Steven Overand. (They are back together at Schmid's new venture, Palazzo Roma in Drury.)

For some time now, Bouhdoud's been at the door and Paul Carrother in the kitchen, serving "honest Italian cuisine with an influence from Southern France". That could be an exquisite mushroom risotto with shaved parmigiano reggiano and truffle oil or this night's special, a chicken, basil and lemon-based ravioli which was so carefully assembled and cooked that each ingredient could be identified and tasted.

Mains include a robust lamb shoulder confit with a grilled loin chop, basil crushed potatoes and ratatouille; slightly more delicate, a wood-roasted chicken on a wilted spinach and pinenut whip, dusted with porcini. We added vegetables, not strictly necessary, but it was only a small dish - the problem didn't amount to a hill of beans.

Perhaps it's not quite pushing the boundaries of modern European cooking, as the Red men suggest, but it is executed very well, making the best of quality local ingredients.

Those quibbles? Well, service can be slow when the restaurant is full - an hour is too long to wait between entree and main - and the wines, from a compact list, expensive. That was what my friend, who knows about such things, said. By the way, did I mention that his name is Rick?

Hours: Dinner Tuesday to Sunday Lunch Friday only

Food: Modern European

Owner: Kal Bouhdoud

Chef: Paul Carrother

Essence: Lots of couples, lots of chatter. Unpretentious food, unpretentious atmosphere. Arty walls, hearty welcome Smoking Smokefree

Wine: Short list, prices a bit cheeky

Noise: Glory be! No canned music until the Peddlers sneaked in with Girlie around coffee time
Cost (mains for two) $50

Vegetarian: Pasta, pizza options

Bottom line: They know their restaurants in this part of town; they eat out a lot, too, so you've got to be good to survive and better to succeed. Red's honest food —it's not always necessary to be innovative —and warm atmosphere has made a lot of friends. Speed of service could be improved

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