Red hot Italians

Picture / Nicola Topping

Everyone knows that everyday Italian red wine moved away from merely low-priced chianti in wicker-covered, big-bottomed bottles years ago - but the question on wine drinkers' lips now is: where next? The answer lies mostly in the south, including Sicily, Sardinia and the heel of the stylish Italian boot, Puglia. These top 10 red wines come mostly from the south of Italy. They are the best of the bunch under $20 tasted both formally in line-ups from samples sent in, as well as less formally with Italian wine producers visiting New Zealand this year.

2003 Lamura Nero D'Avola $9-$10 (Best Buy)

There are other wines that rate more highly than this alongside the rest of the range featured in this story, but Lamura makes the grade for two good reasons. First, the price is great value. And second, this wine was made with grapes grown in Europe's sizzling 2003 vintage, giving this Sicilian red even more deliciousness and drinkability than it usually has. Expect fresh, fruity flavours, a light body and lingering spicy finish.

EAT: Mushroom risotto.

2003 Pasqua Lapaccio Primitivo Salento $17-$18

DNA testing shows that primitivo is not the direct parent grape to California's famous zinfandel, although there is a connection between the two. The best primitivos from Italy have far more interesting savoury flavours than mere tutti-frutti sweetness that zinfandel usually offers. It is also, thankfully, far lower in alcohol - between 12.5 to 13 per cent is standard. And since primitivo is the ninth most-planted grape variety in Italy (according to Jancis Robinson's Guide to Wine Grapes), there is plenty of it about. This is one of the best in New Zealand, offering spicy, savoury and light-fruit flavours.

EAT: Pan-fried lamb's fry with bacon and tomato.

2003 Pasqua Montepulciano D'Abruzzo $12-$13

Not all Montepulciano is labelled as such - anything you see with the words rosso conero and rosso piceno usually contains this widely planted Italian red grape too. This is outstanding value for money under $15 and a brilliant with-food wine because of its light-to-medium body and the earthy flavours that make it easy to match with almost any Italian-derived food.

EAT: Risotto al valpolicella, also known as risotto with red wine finished with parmigiano and flatleaf parsley.

2001 Canaletto Montepulciano D'Abruzzo $17-$19

Another fantastically good value Montepulciano, again from the Abruzzi, although a step up in taste (and price, obviously) to the wine above. It's the chocolate/mocha flavours here and rounded body that give it huge appeal, but don't be fooled. This is a bone-dry red wine, brilliant drinking on its own or with meaty winter food.

EAT: Slow-roasted lamb shanks.

2002 Canaletto Primitivo $17-$19

It is not only the pretty Italianate label that gives this wine its instant appeal, although that helps, since the word primitivo generally means little to most New Zealand wine drinkers.

This is a southern Italian red made with primitivo grapes grown in Puglia, the heel of the Italian boot. It tastes of fresh, sweet, light-fruit flavours such as strawberries; is smooth and silky in the mouth and good with winter food.

EAT: Bacon-and-kidney pie.

2003 Caleo Negroamaro $16-$18

Negroamaro, aka negro amaro, is the sixth most-widely planted grape in Italy and grown mostly in the south where it was traditionally used with other grapes as a blender rather than on its own. As viticultural practices modernise throughout Italy, however, there is an increasing amount of good negroamaro made; most of it higher in quality than ever before. This spicy little red is a great example; good value and definitively Italian in taste.

EAT: Pappardelle with organic chicken, or duck if you're feeling posh.

2003 Piccini Tegole Sangiovese $15-$17

If it isn't the bright-yellow label, the growing number of "recommended-by" stickers make this Tuscan sangiovese impossible to miss. Benevolent supermarket owners sell it for significantly less than its recommended retail price. This is from Toscana (aka Tuscany), but is not a chianti, despite being mostly made from sangiovese grapes. It has sweet, cherry flavours and earthy tastes with a clean, fresh style from start to finish.

EAT: Roast pork with rosemary and garlic.

2002 Canaletto Nero D'Avola Merlot $17-$19

Sicily is home to the nero d'avola, also known as calabrese. This version is one of the best under $20 in New Zealand. It's defined by soft, fruit flavours and layers of interesting, different tastes. It's a great wine to drink with lamb or other sweet styles of meat, particularly with a little merlot in this blend rounding it out.

EAT: Roast lamb with parsnip, yams and kumara.

2003 Di Majo Norante $19-$20

The Di Majo Norante winery began life in the 1800s and was modernised in the 1960s when a modern cantina was constructed and vines were replanted. Which is one of the main reasons this meaty tasting Italian red is such great value; lots of attention to both viticulture and to wine-making. It is a savoury red wine that drinks well with everything from rare eye-fillet to simple mid-week pasta. Make sure the food you drink with it has a hint of spice, which brings out the best in the wine.

EAT: Penne with sliced, spicy Italian sausage served with parmigiano.

2002 Fiorile Rosso Sicilia $11-$12

Sales of this Sicilian red are growing by the year for New Zealand importers A Touch of Italy. It's a blend of nerello mascolese, calabrese and sangiovese grapes, says importer Phil Clarke. And it is an intensely flavoured wine which reminds me of black olives, dried herbs - and sunshine. Despite which, Fiorile Rosso is great drinking year-round, winter or summer. The magnum is exceptional value - 1500ml for just $17 to $18.

EAT: Pizza with mushrooms, mozzarella and anchovies (it's got to be thin-crust pizza).

Stockists

Pasqua - available from Glengarry and some specialist wine stores or contact Kathy Sturge for more information. Phone (09) 379 3740.
Caleo, Canaletto and Piccini available from supermarkets and liquor stores or contact Prodotti d'Italia. Phone (09) 276 7140
Lamura - available from specialist wine stores or mailorder from Wine Direct, Newmarket, Auckland, phone (09) 529 5267.
Di Majo Norante - available from Caro Wines, Parnell, Auckland or phone (09) 377 9974 for stores near you.
Fiorile - available from some New World supermarkets, Cellar Select outlets or contact Phil at
A Touch of Italy for stockists near you. Phone (09) 273 3701.