Rays of sunshine

Gisborne, the country's self-appointed chardonnay capital and first city in the world to see the sun each day, saw the mood of its wine industry darken considerably with the culling of grower contracts by major wine companies that sourced grapes from the region.

Citing industry oversupply and the trend away from chardonnay and sparkling wines to the sauvignon blanc Gisborne struggles to grow well, the companies' withdrawals left a sudden question mark over an estimated 20 per cent of the region's production.

The main blow came this winter when New Zealand's largest wine company and most important player in the region, Pernod Ricard (formerly Montana), pared back its Gisborne operations. "We must plan to get the balance right between supply and demand predictions and forecasts," said Pernod Ricard NZ's managing director, Fabian Partigliani. "And our future grape supply must reflect changing consumer trends."

This followed the departure of Mud House from the region and the downsizing of the Gisborne interests of another large wine group, Constellation.

"The decision was catastrophic for the region - there were certainly a lot of very upset people," recalls Reid Fletcher, a Gisborne grape grower of 35 years. However, the region soon rallied as Fletcher and a group of fellow discarded growers grouped together to form new company GroCo, to process and market the wines made from its shareholders' grapes.

"While people are still upset, there is now a general feeling of optimism with the GroCo initiative by those involved," says Fletcher, who's confident there's still a great future for grape growing in the region, given its lack of water restrictions and frost risk. "Also those involved are genuine producers and not syndicated investment groups out to make a quick buck," he notes.

As GroCo is looking forward, others are looking back - or more specifically, reviving some of the region's historic estates.

One of these is Brunton Road. Owners Richard and Kirsten Searle bought and replanted the historic Matawhero Estate last year and restored its old Riverpoint Road cellar door. Established in the late 60s by Gisborne pioneer the late Bill Irwin and run by his son, Denis, the national and international success of its gewurztraminer and chardonnay highlighted Gisborne's potential to be more than just chateau cardboard country.

"We were captivated by the history of Matawhero and saw huge potential in what is a heritage New Zealand wine brand," explains Searle. "We are excited to be revitalising the iconic label and writing a further chapter in what has been a colourful story."

This year, under the Searles, Matawhero released its first wines for a decade, made by long-time Gisborne champion, Kim Crawford. While the initial vintages will be made from bought-in grapes, as soon as their new vines come on stream Matawhero will return to making wines from the estate.

Another of Irwin's old properties, Bridge Estate, has been given a similarly new lease of life by corporate PR manager, Klaus Sorensen. A fan of Irwin's Bridge Estate bordeaux blends, Sorensen has started releasing wines under his new Poverty Bay label from the estate's 25-year-old vines, which are some of the oldest of the region.

Sorensen, one of a new wave of boutique players to set up in Gisborne, remains upbeat about the region's future. "Viticulture in Gisborne is going from strength to strength at present with at least a dozen smaller producers formed in the last five years."

Change was inevitable in the region and some of this is most definitely positive. The sun's still shining on many of Gisborne's growers.


AN ICON REVIVED
Matawhero Gisborne Viognier 2009
$25.90

Some great wines made from aromatic varieties, such as viognier, have been coming out of Gisborne in recent years. This inaugural release from the revived Matawhero label is a rich creamy textured example, with flavours reminiscent of apricots served with vanilla icecream and a sprinkle of cinnamon. (From Glengarry, Mairangi Bay Fine Wines, Montrose and Amphora Wines, One Stop Liquor, Hamilton Wine Company, Liquorland)

OLD VINES, NEW LABEL
Poverty Bay Matawhero Merlot Cabernets 2008
$24

The concentration from Bridge Estate's old vines shines through in this fresh and sturdy blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon malbec, with its intense blackcurrant fruit and hints of chocolate, freshly roasted coffee and spice. Terrific value too.
(From povertybaywine.co.nz)

FROM EXCESS TO SUCCESS
Bushmere Estate Classic Gisborne Chardonnay 2007
$22

Bushmere started in 2005 after the winery its owners were supplying grapes to didn't take all the fruit they'd grown. It's swiftly established itself as the source of solid chardonnays in particular, such as this attractive example with its fleshy stone fruit infused with vanilla, smoke and fresh citrus.
(From Herne Bay Cellars)