KEY POINTS:
It's alleged that Cleopatra was rather partial to the odd amphora of syrah and, several millennia later, wine drinkers worldwide have followed suit, propelling it into the position of one of the fastest growing grape varieties globally.
Voluptuously textured, sweetly fruited and with a spicy edge, syrah (or shiraz as it's known in much of the New World) has gained fans seduced by its soft and fruity everyday examples, and those looking for something more serious and structured.
Plantings in France have increased four-fold over the past two decades.
Beyond France, the country most associated with the variety is Australia, which boasts some of the world's oldest shiraz vines, dating back to 1855. With the importance of shiraz to Australia as the country's most widely planted grape, they've been committed to unravelling some of its mysteries. A major breakthrough was made last year when the Australian Wine Research Institute identified the aroma compound behind the prized black pepper character that occurs, particularly in cooler climates.
Black pepper flavours certainly abound in the syrahs now coming out of New Zealand, which has seen plantings more than double in the past five years. Hawkes Bay is at the centre of this boom, where syrah's been found to ripen far more reliably than cabernet sauvignon, and in some cases has even started to be planted in preference of merlot. Given the country's cooler conditions, we'll never be able to produce the kind of $15-brands that Australia has excelled in. However, New Zealand has started to produce some impressive high level examples, such as Trinity Hill's Homage, Craggy Range's Le Sol, Bilancia's La Collina and Te Mata's Bullnose.
Whether syrah will eclipse the Bordeaux blend or give our pinots a run for their money is open to debate. But the fact that New Zealand has made so much progress with the variety in so short a time suggests great things to come.
By any other name...
PEPPERY DEBUT
Elephant Hill Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007 $24.95
This promising debut exudes the powerful aromatics of spicy black pepper and anise for which our syrahs are becoming known. It's tight and tangy, but with depth to its ripe boysenberry fruit.
From The Wine Vault, Bacchus Cellars, Point Wines.
ELEGANT AUSSIE
Riseborough Shiraz, Australia 2004 $23.80
A fresh and fragrant Shiraz from cooler climes of Gingin, Western Australia. Supple ripe plum and berry fruit fuse with rich chocolatey and earthy undertones, with hints of peppery spice and sweet vanillin oak.
From Kemp Rare Wines.
RIPE RHONE
Delas Saint-Esprit Cotes du Rhone, France 2005 $21.95
This blend from the southern Rhone is lissome and lively. It has a juicy midweight core of dark berry fruits, along with notes of mocha, spice and savoury, supported by fine tannins.
From fine wine stores including Fine Wine Delivery Company, Nelson and Simich.
