Pub spy: Variety, style ... and balls

Bedford Soda and Liquor, in Ponsonby Central, has a spectacular array of sodas and great meatballs. Photo / Michael Craig

Bedford Soda and Liquor
4 Brown St, Ponsonby Central, Ponsonby
Open seven days noon to midnight
Ph (09) 378 7362
www.bedfordsodaliquor.co.nz

The newest addition to Ponsonby's glittering array of star bars, Bedford is quite a different proposition.

For a start, it has balls. Literally - they do wicked meatballs in this place, which is lucky, because that's the only food they serve: meatballs, in so many combinations it makes your head spin.

They are very good and the parmesan sauce is outstanding as well, so I'm sure it will be a very successful spot.

It's nicely situated as well, in a corner space in the Ponsonby Central retail space and it looks great, with a light, airy atmosphere and comfortable seating.

The service is also beyond reproach, with a talented team of bar staff who take their work seriously and make outstanding cocktails, although the beer selection could do with a tweak, notwithstanding the presence of Emerson's 1812 on tap.

The wine list is somewhat heavily weighted towards one supplier, which is hardly unusual, but increasingly annoying especially as there are so many great wines available. It always seems a shame to limit the choice you offer to customers purely to make life easier for yourself.

That's a small quibble, though, once you have a look at the cocktail menu. It's outstanding, with innovative drinks, helped along by the presence of the bar's sodas, which come in such a bewildering array of flavours that I could easily make you giddy.

There is also a nice leaning toward less alcohol-heavy drinks too, again helped by the handmade sodas, so you don't even have to be a cocktail fan to enjoy Bedford.

Overall, a great spot and one that is destined to become hugely popular for both its food and drink offerings. Get in there now before it gets too crowded.

Service: 5
Menu: 4
Drink: 4
Atmosphere: 4

Overall: 4