Provence

By CARROLL du CHATEAU for canvas

The last time we visited Provence in Ponsonby it was a meal to remember. The wedding celebration of dear friends, one working in the food business, guaranteed superb food, service and a great night all round. So on this wintry Friday night we were looking forward to a fine evening.

So what if the restaurant was deserted when we arrived? So what when the thrum of noise from the bar downstairs seemed to escalate by the second? Our delightful young waitperson, who tripped up and down the stairs every couple of minutes, assured us it was early for a Friday, fellow diners would be along soon. And so we ordered a bottle of Black Barn Hawkes Bay merlot/cab sav/cab franc ($40), abandoned all pretence of sophistication by ordering bread to soften the wine, and ordered. It was a shock to be offered foccacia or garlic bread rather than French at a restaurant named Provence, but the garlic bread, drowned in butter, was wonderful.

Brian began with the Moules Mariniere ($10) while I opted for the chargrilled baby octopus salad ($12). Both arrived promptly, thanks to Fairyfoot, and both were a delight. Brian's mussels were fat and faintly salty, tasting of the sea, the broth they swam in frothy and just creamy enough. My salad tasted French too. Although the octopuses were a little chewy, the dressing was tangy and plentiful, the mushrooms in the salad delicious and the ribbons of parmesan which had melted a little in the tossing brought the whole thing together.

By this time, around 8.30pm, the place was still deserted and the hubbub from below was getting that threatening edge to it. "They've been here since 4," informed Fairyfoot. "You should see the bar tabs." Indeed.

We were beginning to settle into the restaurant-for-two idea, so when another couple finally tramped up the stairs it was something of a shock. When they began discussing investments and money loudly enough for us to get whole sentences over the downstairs noise, it became disconcerting.

So, as usual, we concentrated on the food. My Fish of the Market which turned out to be bluenose ($25) arrived looking over-plain, but when I dug into it, it was a delight. Freshest, lightly cooked fish resting on deep-fried quenelles with a pile of expertly cooked green beans on the side. Brian's Murrellen Pork Loin with spiced apple stuffing ($23) was also moist, again beautifully cooked. Both meals, though hardly Provencal as we remember it, were a triumph of balance.

By now the noise level, both downstairs and upstairs, was beginning to unnerve us. Even Fairyfoot, who now blamed the slow night on a rugby match at Eden Park, could see the romantic dinner for two thing was out of the question. I didn't even finish my flabby-tasting creme caramel, though, unsurprisingly, Brian popped in his chocolate-mousse-filled profiteroles (both $10) before flashing down those stairs to take a look at our tormenters below.

Funny, it didn't sound so raucous down there.

*****

Parking: quite good at this end of Ponsonby Rd, especially on the other side of the road

Cost:$140 for two entrees, main courses, desserts, and wine

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.