KEY POINTS:
I am a potato head. I will eat potatoes anywhere, any time, done anyway and with anyone. Potatoes done six ways will be my last meal when I go to prison for killing people who eat McDonalds. Because it's winter I am now allowed to talk about potatoes again. Given the choice, I would write about potatoes every week.
We have quite a choice of potatoes now in New Zealand; although we're still a way behind Bolivia which has 250 varieties.
Potatoes are between 70 per cent and 80 per cent water, 10-20 per cent starch and 10 per cent sugar, mineral and protein. Not as the diet fascists would have us believe, 100 per cent sugar. In terms of calories, eating a potato is no different from eating an apple or a banana. How can that be bad for you? The fact you can hide a lot of butter and oil in them is beside the point.
Potatoes should be kept in the dark in a paper bag, not in plastic. Maori always kept them in a pit.
Except when the recipe prohibits it, it's a good idea to eat potatoes scrubbed, not peeled; stirred, not shaken because the layer immediately under the skin contains most of the vitamin C and flavour.
It's important to buy the right potato for the right dish. It's madness to mash a waxy Jersey Benny, for example, and folly to make a salad from floury puff balls. It can only end in tears and then your salad will be too salty. Here's some tips:
Cut waxy potatoes into 1.5cm cubes and fry in duck fat. Apart from horse fat, there is absolutely nothing better in which to fry potatoes. It gives them a creaminess and earthiness.
Boil waxy potatoes in thick slices, then toss them with thickly-sliced, rustic sausages and vinaigrette.
Puree Agrias with hot olive oil and milk, through a ricer.
Scratch Agrias with a fork and put them under the rack roast meat is cooking on.
Cut Agrias in half lengthwise and roast them face down on sprigs of thyme, salt, pepper and olive oil. The thyme sticks to them prettily.
Make potato bread.
Make a warm salad from Peruperu Maori potatoes which are waxy and sticky. The creamy yellow skin is splashed with purple.
Mash purple Urenika Maori potatoes. You need to use a lot of liquid as they are dry and floury. They look dramatic with mashed carrots and mashed Brussels sprouts.
Make a fish tagine with waxy potatoes, preserved lemon, fresh coriander, tomatoes and saffron.
Or Vichysoise, which is leek and potato soup.
Try Jansen's Temptation - sliced Agria potatoes baked in cream, anchovies, allspice, topped with fresh bread crumbs. This recipe is essential for winter carb loading and preservation of girl curves.
- Detours, HoS
