Pontoon, Westhaven

The bouillabaisse arrived ceremonially at just the right temperature. Picture / Fotopress

(Herald rating: * * * *)

After Pontoon — resplendent in nautical white, sheer and elegant drapery and a stylish marble-walled bar —comprises Bar 21, the Seacow dining room and Paua Room, a private dining space separated from the main room by a glass feature wine cellar and fireplace room divider. Bowls of exotic, yellow-edged red lilies, white pebbles and tropical green leaves complete the look with artfully placed tealight candles.

The menu has been designed by former White at the Hilton chef Justin Rimmer so don't be surprised to find hints of familiarity but with a freer, more casual approach in the Pontoon menu.

We appreciated a tasting of the garlic flatbread from the wood-fired oven. It was moreish and light and a pleasant change to the usual overzealous consumption of bulky bread and getting that weighed-down feeling.

On the cool Sunday night we dined at Pontoon, it was the wild mushroom risotto with mascarpone that won David and me over. The warming puddle of creamy Ferron risotto was intensely flavoured with plenty of mushrooms stirred through. The finishing with basil, mascarpone, black truffle oil and parmesan gave it star status. We'd been talking about our fondness for zucchini flowers we'd eaten in Italy. So we couldn't go past the entree of tempura zucchini flowers stuffed with white truffled feta. We liked the tang of the jewelled pomegranate dressing, too.

The wines with the entrees were Matua Innovator Rose 2004, Hawkes Bay and Kahurangi gewurztraminer 2003, Nelson.

At home and at the beach we love to bring large bowls, platters or pans to the table to share. Rimmer's menu lists three choices for two to share. A Pound of Prawns is just that — simply steamed with white wine, fish stock and bay leaf; Pontoon Raw is a selection of salmon or tuna sashimi, ceviche marinated in lime, then drained and mixed with coconut cream, pickled ginger, coriander, tomato, cucumber and salt, plus caviar. However, it was the Fisherman's Bouillabaisse (seafood stew originating from Marseille) that appealed and seemed appropriate for the waterside setting. The chef's notes say the recipe is one borrowed from the Roux brothers. Celery, carrot, potato, fennel and cherry tomatoes are layered with bay leaves, garlic and saffron to marinate overnight and the seafood — fresh fillets of John Dory, mussels, prawns, crab claws, scallops and squid — are doused with Pernod and white wine.

The resulting stew arrives with ceremony, carried by two white-shirted bearers a generous pot placed on a wooden board, an enormous platter of garlic flatbread with a bowl of the traditional accompaniment rouille (potato saffron mayo) and finger bowls. Warming, fragrant, saffron-scented sea air escapes as the lid is lifted off the pan. We are left to spoon this sea harvest into hot soup bowls. These plates are comfortingly hot, and I applaud the kitchen crew, as crockery at the correct temperature to match the food is an exceptional and rare thing in restaurant service around town.

The wines with the main were Georges Michel Summer Folly rose 2004, Marlborough; Chard Farm River Run pinot noir 2002, Central Otago.

The Pyramid of Citrus almond praline guarding a heart of lemon curd and mandarin sorbet was served with ruby grapefruit, mint and a ruby grapefruit and champagne water. A fantastic finale.

Service: The Pontoon team epitomises cheerful, calm, caring service. 

WHERE: Pontoon, Pier 21, Westhaven Drive, Auckland. (09) 373 5776
OUR MEAL: $161.30 for two; entrees $13-$28 (for 15 oysters); mains $25-$33; for two $43-$60; flatbreads $18-$25; desserts $13-$15; cheeses $15 each or three for $35.
OUR WINES: tastings $4-$7.50; glass $7-$15; bottle $33-$365; champagne $96-$780.