When the going gets tough, the tough get going at Paris Fashion Week. In a season dogged by intrigue, this could be a mantra, on the catwalk and beyond.
And so, in place of summer's vibrant colour and print comes a predominantly dark palette - plum, burgundy, emerald, violet, grey and more black than has been seen for a very long time - and references to S&M and fetish aplenty. Leather, latex and lace are the prevalent fabrics. There's an elegant - even uptight - sensibility across the board. "Sophisto-slut," Giles Deacon said of his collection for Ungaro, neatly nailing a mood where the appeal of the archetypal sexually repressed grande bourgeoise, Belle de Jour, continues to resonate. It's a time-honoured cliché, but the way designers reinvent it speaks volumes.
More than any of his contemporaries, Marc Jacobs captures the zeitgeist and his show for Louis Vuitton was an extraordinary display of virtuosity and power. The influences of The Night Porter, Allen Jones and Yves Saint Laurent were all on display, and, of course, the high-camp posturing that is all this designer's own. So, too, were the trends: the moulded, predominantly patent, leather (gleaming corsetry); the rubber (stack-heeled rain boots); the colours (Gothic); the silhouette (skinny on the bottom half, voluminous on the top); and the respect for pioneering technique and hand-craftsmanship that were everywhere in the French fashion capital, all came together here.
While more than a few designers keep accessories to a minimum on the catwalk, feeling, somehow, that they detract from the importance of their designs, Jacobs bombards his followers with them, safe in the knowledge that they form the backbone of an over-crowded market and, for this particular brand in particular, are of vital importance.
If audacity is key here, then a more discreet opulence was on display at Dries Van Noten, where the silhouette remained, for the most part, strict and narrow but fabric and print - all exclusive to the label - ensure that the loyal customer knows she is in possession of something extremely special. Starting quietly and building up to an ever more intricate and lovely effect, this show also pulled in a masculine tailoring influence that is over-arching and that Van Noten does very well. As far as mixing different weights, weaves and prints together, often in a single garment, he is a master.
Sarah Burton's second collection for Alexander McQueen demonstrated a similar attention to surface detail and workmanship - fabrics were hand-woven and engineered to suit just a single garment. The McQueen woman was an "ice queen", according to the designer, regal and untouchable in highly structured designs that degraded into feathers, fur and fine wool tufts from the waist down. Gleaming zips, horse harnessing and an ultra-high heel finished with a vicious metal spike ensured that this collection upheld the values of the McQueen name and the play between hard and soft, power and vulnerability in particular.
There was nothing much vulnerable about Karl Lagerfeld's woman at Chanel. She stomped out of her (branded) spaceship in army boots with oversized tweedy cuffs, slouchy trousers and jumpsuits in the finest lace but finished with leather or padded nylon, to youthful and don't-mess-with-me effect.
Always among the most confident shows on the international schedule, as befits the status of the world-famous name, this time it was exceptional: in tune with a younger sensibility and all the better for that.
The new Ungaro woman is also quite fierce, sporting Lesage embroidered wolves and birds of prey, peak shoulders, tooled-leather jackets and trousers and armoured neck-pieces. The designer Giles Deacon took quintessentially Parisian flourishes - from Folies Bergeres marabou feathers to peek-a-boo sheer panelling - and invested them with a hard, more street-fashion inspired edge.
"Are there any pythons left in the world?" wondered one commentator this week, not entirely unreasonably given the prevalence of snake which, in the end, appeared less-than-exclusive for its ubiquity.
The same might be said of leather were it not for designers' more imaginative treatment of that skin. Junya Watanabe, in particular, moulded brown and black hide in ever more inventive ways - padded, moulded, heavy as an authentic biker but with a wasp waist or light as a feather in the form of draped skirts and dresses. The woman here, too, was an impressively worldly figure, one who can run in her pointed black boots should she so desire.
"Tradition, technology, technique - three Ts," was how Alber Elbaz summed up his collection for Lanvin - its metal edges, play between matte fabrics and high shine, and exploration of volume were high points. The designer's treatment of the notoriously difficult couture fabric, gazar, stood out - it has a life of its own and is as light as it is subtly luxurious and lovely to wear.
There are few viewpoints as contemporary or metropolitan as Nicolas Ghesquiere's. The Balenciaga designer is as interested in moving fashion forward technically - chubby plaited leather and the standout print of the season - as he is in creating a contemporary wardrobe for women that is at once pragmatic and individual. The proportions were easier and more relaxed than previously, but any ease belied the virtuosity at the heart of clothing destined to be loved by a fashion-knowledgeable female more than most.
With the Yves Saint Laurent archive prevalent as a reference across the board, it should come as no surprise that the label's current creative director, Stefano Pilati, looked to it too. He understands it well and this was a great show, beautifully balancing a youthful spirit with a more liquid and sensual line befitting a modern-day Bianca Jagger. Crepe jumpsuits suspended from fragile collars of sheer silk were juxtaposed with moulded, trapeze-line dresses and the masculine tailoring that this house's namesake gave to women the world over.
"Do my shoulders look big in this?" Absolutely, if Miuccia Prada has anything to do with it. This designer's collection for Miu Miu featured jackets the breadth of which would make it a struggle to fit through the average doorway. These came alongside more feminine tea dresses embroidered with sparkling sprigs of cherry blossom, daisies and birds. There was also a sportswear-influenced element, strong-shouldered blouses with contrasting collars worn with tailored trousers - with an elasticated waistband and hem and a jaunty, old-school baseball cap. The woman at Miu Miu is, for the most part, gentle but she's also a playful, even mischievous soul and, here too, as always, was a welcome injection of wit.
Given her status as the godmother of the fashion avant-garde, it's small wonder that Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo is rarely credited with a sense of humour. She has one, though, and it was good to see in more than marginally touched Shirley Temple wigs, encrusted with gold, in big frilly knickers (gold again or in felted wool) and dresses made out of vintage scarves (when they go into production, no two will be the same). This was a collection of hybrid clothing - one half of a garment was merged with an entirely different shadow of a second half to ever more accomplished effect. It's now 30 years since Kawakubo emerged on the international fashion circuit and her ability to innovate shows no sign of abating: the woman who wears these clothes will look nothing short of awesome.
Riccardo Tisci has by now effectively reinvented Givenchy, ensuring it is among the designer tags to see and be seen wearing. This is no small feat. His secret? An essentially Italianate sensibility - Baroque prints featuring pansies, panthers and parma violets fused effortlessly with S&M chic, Parisian-style. Those who dare to wear this, his most accomplished collection to date, will exude glamour with a capital "G".
Also in Paris, designers Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli proved the Roman couturier's legacy is in safe hands, while Hussein Chalayan's short film showed there is an alternative to the blockbuster presentation; his beautiful, understated collection hung on rails alongside, enabling visitors to see it up close.
Finally, John Galliano's scaled-down presentation, held in the intimate but ornate setting of a grand Parisian townhouse, showcased an exquisite jewellery box of a collection that went to prove the name behind it is one of the world's great designers, despite the difficulty of current circumstances.
- INDEPENDENT
