Pinot answers prayers

2007 Seresin Leah Pinot Noir & 2008 Seresin Pinot Gris. Photo / Supplied.

Lovers of pinot noir are probably the most obsessive, evangelical wine buffs on the planet.

While conceding that other varietals — most notably Bordeaux styles — have their place, pinot-philes worship at the feet of the petulant grape of Burgundy and accept no substitutes.

Talk to any exporting New Zealand producer and they'll tell you that once you have a sauvignon blanc (preferably from Marlborough) in your portfolio the clamour is for pinot noir.

Hardcore Burgundian-style pinot lovers will say our pinots are too bright, breezy and fruity, and don't hold a candle to their European cousins, which are awash with brambly forest floor, mushroom and truffle flavours.

But there is a market for our New World style, which is less about earthiness and more about elderberries.

While most attention for New Zealand pinot is focused on Central Otago and Martinborough, the good folk of Marlborough are exerting some considerable muscle and making their way on to centre stage.

None more so than Seresin Estate, international cinematographer Michael Seresin's distinctive label and winery, which is turning out some fine wines.

Apart from a handful of distinctive whites, the focus recently has been on pinot — in six different styles.

Seresin established his winery in 1992, and has forged a reputation for individuality and complexity as well as for organic and biodynamic viticultural practises that have ensured a commitment to premium wines.

Two of the pinots readily available are "Leah", and the smaller run "Rachael" which costs about $55 a bottle.

Going on sale in February will be "Sun and Moon", one of the best New Zealand pinots I've tried. Only 850 bottles have been produced, and it'll set you back $120 a bottle.

"Raupo Creek", from a hillside vineyard with a lovely earthy style; "Home", a gentle, sweet pinot and "Tatou", with dark, brooding fruit, wet stone and savoury notes, are each $50 a bottle.

RECOMMENDED
2007 Seresin Leah Pinot Noir
Leader of the pack in commercial terms. Highly fragrant, beautifully balanced with lots of dark cherry, mocha, leather and spice. Concentrated, succulent. This is superb buying.
Price: $33-$35

2008 Seresin Pinot Gris
In a sea of innocuous insipid pinot gris, this one stands out as a beacon of hope. Tastes of spice, pears and nuts with a mineral, creamy texture and biting dry finish. Crisp, lean, lovely.
Price: $28