Pimentos, Taupo

By CARROLL DU CHATEAU for canvas

Taupo on a long weekend was packed with holidaymakers, and at Pimento restaurant in Tamamutu St, it was crammed by 8pm. Luckily we had followed the restaurant's advice (they called twice to confirm our booking, such was the demand) and arrived early at 6.45, which meant there were no hold-ups. They also declined to cook one of our trout, pulled out of the lake that morning, because the kitchen was so busy, though it is worth noting that they usually do oblige.

After some Brumby's loaves and chicken liver pate ($9.50), we decided to split four entrees between the eight of us. Helen and I chose the Lamb sweetbread and chicken liver kebabs served on a cake of savoury rice ($11.50), which conveniently came in two small kebabs. Helen thoroughly enjoyed hers. I, being more critical, found the sweetbread side of the duo a little slimy and underdone - always a worry with offal. The rice was delicious though and the presentation stunning, with the kebabs piled high and topped with salad greens and long twisted kumara chips.

The others were well pleased with their choices, Brandy flashed prawns, scallops and shrimps ($13.50), which came in a filo shell, and warm moroccan salad ($12).

Our main courses were similar: brilliant presentation (produced from a small galley kitchen in full view) but with a bit too much emphasis on high stacks and kumara chips spiking out like wildebeest horns; slightly dud flavour notes (especially the tandoori spiced lamb Shanks, which shouted at each other); but full marks for service and prices.

My eye fillet of beef ($23) had been sliced thinly before, rather than after, cooking, which was a mistake. It was however redeemed by the profusion of matchstick-sliced vegetables and halved new potatoes soaking up the gravy underneath. Both Brian and Andy found the tandoori spices in the lamb shanks ($19) got in the way. Andrea enjoyed her garlic-infused scotch fillet, though the sauce was little oily. Lou, however, loved her pasta ($17.50) and the chefs cheerfully held the blue cheese in the dressing. Helen was pleased with her roasted chicken breast ($19) and Boris and Marcus declared the pork loin with pineapple and Sage ($19.50) fine, if a little overcooked.

Our desserts were unexceptional but okay. Andy loved the bread and butter pudding and Marcus and Andrew had some fabulous chocolate thing (both $8). And hey, as Boris said, this is a cafe. And it's in Taupo. And on one of the busiest nights of the year. The mainly New Zealand wine list is excellent, "as good as you'd see anywhere at a cafe-type restaurant".

Next time we're in Taupo we'd certainly head for Pimento again, hopefully with a big trout for them to smoke.

Cost: Shared entrees, main courses, desserts and bread for eight, plus one bottle of Annie's Lane Shiraz ($44) and corkage, $312.70

Ambience: Bright and cheerful but too much emphasis on stacks.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.