Perfect combinations

2008 Rochfort Rees Sauvignon Blanc . Photo / Greg Bowker

On occasion wine obsessives gather like secret clansmen behind closed doors to conduct a ritual many would regard as bizarre. In simple terms, it's a dinner that is driven by wine - not just any wine, but cherished, valuable bottles of significant age and vintage, lovingly lifted from private cellars. Each invited guest must bring at least two bottles of something special to put on the table.

Ideally the wines should be Bordeaux first growths, Burgundy grand cru or wines of such impeccable reputation that they transcend historical classifications. In essence, the most revered and arguably most expensive wines on the planet - preferably from superior vintages. There are 10 of us (12 had connotations of the Last Supper - not appropriate) at our most recent dinner.

Guests have come from Inver-cargill, Wellington, Matakana and Auckland, where the event takes place. It starts at four in the afternoon and concludes around midnight.

Great food with matching wine ought not to be rushed, besides there are eight courses plus obligatory sorbet and petit fours. The table setting is sublime and I've never seen so many glasses perfectly placed, a different style for each wine, of course. The food includes Japanese-inspired canapes, prawns with calamari, citrus chicken quenelles, pork and pistachio terrine, smoked mushroom pate, roast duck ravioli, fillet of beef, a selection of cheeses and a chocolate torte with pear.

To drink? Roederer Cristal 2000 and Dom Perignon 1999 champagne, Le Montrachet (French Chardonnay) from top producers, a slew of Burgundies from Domaine de la Romanee Conti (the La Tache 1993 was especially memorable), Bordeaux from 1986 - Leoville las Cases and Cos d'Estournel and 1990 Mouton Rothschild Chateau Rieussec 1999 to finish.

The occasion was punctuated with vibrant argument over the merits - or otherwise - of each wine. An evening of extravagance, yet enlightenment. I felt so much joy I just had to share it with you. It's been tap water and mince ever since.

Recommended

2008 Rochfort Rees Sauvignon Blanc
From Marlborough's Awatere Valley comes an impressive new kid on the block. Distinctly cool climate wine with vibrant passionfruit and pineapple flavours. Class act.
Price: $20

2008 Moncellier Pinot Noir
From a new producer, this wine is made from Central Otago grapes, distinctive ripe cherries, dried flowers and herbs. Impressive first vintage.
Price: $35