Pearl Restaurant, Northcote

The pork fillet, stuffed with figs, with apple chutney. Picture / Martin Sykes

One of my favourite winter weekend treats is a movie at Northcote's Bridgeway Theatre preceded or followed by a meal at Sausalito next door. But I've often looked across the road to Pearl Restaurant and wondered what went on in there. Tonight we were going to find out.

In the mood for a quiet meal and deep conversation, we were a little alarmed to arrive and discover it was live jazz night — a popular addition apparently, as the restaurant was buzzing with what the waiter observed was "every Tom, Dick and Harry."

We took a discreet table down the back, ordered a glass each of the Coopers Creek Viognier 2004, and decided the music was pitched just fine.

Although a neighbourhood restaurant as such, Pearl's chic white decor gives it a touch of Ponsonby. And what else would you do with a 1930s art deco style former post office building, other than turn it into a restaurant?

The one thing I have in common with larrikin chef and author Anthony Bourdain [that's enough name dropping — ed] is that I've never met an oyster I didn't like. Terrie, however, pronounced herself unconvinced but willing to give them a try.

So we shared the entree of oysters done four ways — raw, grilled with cheese on top, deep-fried and in a shot of Bloody Mary ($22.50). She was as thrilled with them as I and pronounced herself converted.

Of the 10 main courses on offer, three were risotto, which must be a house specialty. Me, I'm over risotto. Other choices covered the usual bases of chicken, eye fillet, lamb and salmon.

A little unusually for me, I ordered pork for my main — a fillet stuffed with figs, accompanied by apple chutney, of course, and served on a herb-flavoured mash ($26.50). It was, tender and delicious, although I have to say, a little on the cold side, which was unfortunate. Terrie made much the same observations about her seared venison, served with onion and blue cheese tart ($27.50) — great flavours, she said, just a tad lukewarm. But we conspired not to say anything to the staff for fear our plates would be sent for a spin in the microwave.

However, that was really the only complaint of the evening. They otherwise maintained a good level of service considering what seemed like the low ratio of wait staff to patrons.

We accompanied our mains with a glass each of the Kerner Estate Pinot Gris from a wine list that offers a good range of mostly New Zealand wines by the glass.

Dessert was well beyond our capabilities by now and Terrie was thwarted in her desire for a dessert wine by their lack of availability.

Despite these little niggles, I enjoyed Pearl. Its prices are reasonable and next time I feel like the dinner/movie treat, I'll be more inclined to cross the road.

Where: Pearl Restaurant, 115 Queen St, Northcote Pt (09) 480 9502
Our meal: $132 for two entrees and two mains and six glasses of wine.
Our wines: By the glass $7.50 to $18 for the Veuve Clicquot. Still wines by the bottle $35 — $55.