Pataka Organics Cafe and Bakery, Hastings

By CARROLL du CHATEAU for canvas

Despite a lingering suspicion of organically produced food, brought on by reports of nasty-yet-organic sprays and pseudo-organic produce, we couldn't resist a visit to Pataka's Organic Cafe on the main street of Hastings.

It was late, we were hot and hungry and the cafe, with its frothing window boxes, large airy look and spicy smells wafting through from the adjoining health food shop was too enticing to pass up. So, having checked out the look of the organic coffee on offer, we selected one of the wooden tables and studied the brunch board.

The choice, unexpectedly for a place like Hastings, was seriously adventurous. On another day we could have had any number of yoghurt and fruit smoothies, organic muffins or kiwifruit with biscotti and quark, but we were far too hungry for that.

Brian ordered an omelette with fresh herbs ($7.50) and I opted for a ham and cheese toastie ($5), made with heavy, dense bread I hadn't seen the likes of since Reizenstein's wholemeal quietly disappeared off our city shelves.

For once, stranded away from from our faithful Francis Francis coffee machine, we wanted our flat whites first. So we sat down, among the tables full of families, and waited, and waited. After about 10 minutes the coffee arrived and it was everything we wanted- hot, strong enough and with a fresh fragrance that did seem a little different.

But there was no sign of our food. Meanwhile people with a hippyish sort of look drifted in and out, quite a few of them disappearing through the swing doors into the kitchen beyond. By now we had demolished the Herald and checked out the organic produce and health shop next door.

Finally, after a 25-minute wait, our food materialised. Mine was delicious. The toastie was fat and full and served with a piquant chilli tomato relish on the side. The rough brown bread, which turned out to taste sweet and almost salt-free, was toasted until crisp and sizzling and the filling was hot and melted too.

Brian was not so excited by his omelette, which he said was totally dominated by the herbs. Certainly there were a lot of them, but they were obviously fresh and fragrant - and isn't that what a fresh herb omelette is all about?

Overall Pataka was fine with two big flaws. For a half-empty cafe, the wait was intolerable. Second, the coffee, while perfectly acceptable, was charged at Auckland prices, and I'm sure that even the main street in Hastings doesn't pay Auckland rents.

Where: 217 Heretaunga Street Hastings

Parking: Plenty

Service: Slow and sweet

Open: 9-4 every day

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.