KEY POINTS:
A website I searched lists 17 French restaurants in the Auckland region but I rather think some - the marvellous Palazzo Roma at Drury, for example - stretch a point in adopting that classification.
Even the French Cafe and the perennial Antoines only claim French influence rather than French identity. No, the real restaurants francais in town, aside from a handful that open only during the daytime, are St Tropez in Parnell and Bouchon in Kingsland.
Not any more. Pastis had been open only a fortnight when I happened on it and dragged the Blonde along. She wasn't that hard to drag, actually, because she has such good memories of our meals in France.
Most of these were mouthwatering assemblages of charcuterie, cheese, pastries, eaten en plein air which is what the French say when they mean al fresco. But others were more lavish affairs. We both think back fondly on a meal at L'Olivade in St Rémy de Provence on the occasion of the Blonde's birthday (I forbear to say which one because it would be ungentlemanly).
The inhouse minstrel serenaded her at the table - thanks to an eye-watering in-advance incentive from me - and the food and wine were so wonderful that I responded with complete equanimity to the later discovery that some locals had smashed the window on our rental car and, finding nothing within, had removed a piece of it for quick sale. It's not often you have a great meal and learn the French word for radiator grille (la calandre) in one night.
Auckland's newest French restaurant is actually the new venture by Alex Roux, the bereted patron of Bouchon. The idea, says the manager, who is also called Alex, is to create the "old school' traditional Parisian brasserie. Thus the room, with bifold windows along two sides, is divided in two: the bar, which looks like a fine place to enjoy a glass of the eponymous anise-flavoured aperitif, is within and the dining room is streetside. And it's as French as, well, as pastis actually: the night we were there, every staff member was extravagantly and delightfully French.
Chef Cedric Dupont, who oversaw matters at Bouchon, is in charge in the kitchen and has brought much of the menu - the brains with a sauce ravigotte (capers and herbs), for example - across town with him. The galettes, the savoury crêpes - that were a feature at Bouchon are still on the lunch list here, but not for dinner where the menu is traditional brasserie: escargots, pâté and brains among the starters; and chicken/beef/fish dishes du jour along with a cassoulet. It's the French equivalent of comfort food. No one's trying to be clever; au contraire, you're meant to feel you've been here before and want to come again.
And almost the moment I sat down, that's exactly what I felt. M. Dupont gives a fine account of the standards (if the cassoulet was a bit dry, the duck was compensatingly moist) and the desserts (we had tarte aux pommes and Crêpes Suzette) are equally impressive. In sum, this is unspectacular and solid, which is exactly what it seeks to be. I can't wait to go back.
Pastis
128 Victoria St West
Ph: 309 4264
Open weekdays from 11.30am-10.30pm (weekends from 8am); dinner from 5.30pm except Sundays.
Wine list: Largely French. It's also a bar.
Vegetarians: One main, doubtless galettes.
Watch out for: Gallic flair.
Sound check: Conversation-friendly.
Bottom line: We'll always have Paris.
Rating: 4/5
The Bill
$141 for two
Mise en bouche (bread and dips) $7.50
Brains $17.50
Cassoulet $28.50
Duck $28.50
Veges $6.50
Tarte $11
Crêpes $11
Wine (three glasses) $30.50
- Detours, HoS
