Pasifika shows true soul of the city

By LINDA HERRICK

So all eyes have been on the Viaduct Basin over the past few months, the place where millionaires' under-used yachts creak a rich, lonely song, and the flags of cup also-rans droop forlornly. We've been doggedly loyal to our boys but after the America's Cup hullabaloo dissipates, can we still say the Viaduct is the beating heart of Auckland City?

Sure, there's been a steady rhythm in the opening (and closing) of menus and wallets around the basin but take heed: next Friday evening and all day Saturday, the city's proud, true soul comes into play, at the Pasifika Festival.

Pasifika is an event held not on the waterfront, but near water. More than 120,000 people throng to it, but there's not a superyacht in sight. Just like the Viaduct, you'll hear many languages spoken but they are the familiar voices of our Pacific Island neighbours from Niue, Samoa, Tokelau, Tonga, Kiribati, Fiji and the Cook Islands.

At Pasifika, there'll also be a serious battle - between dancers, not billionaire syndicates. And instead of police and security officers patrolling the area, there is a cop - on stage, rapping.

Pasifika annually celebrates all things Pacific Island in Aotearoa. Now in its 11th year, the festival in and around Western Springs and its lake is the biggest of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, embracing all ages, races, creeds and crazes. It caters for the traditional, honouring the customs of the fale and the village. It showcases the beautiful music and superb voices of our Pacific Island community. And it increasingly focuses more and more on youth, our future, in performance, sport, graffiti art, dance, film and workshops.

This year, there are important innovations in Pasifika's substantial and diverse programme. We take a look at those and other features which make Pasifika such a special place to be - and it's free. Matagofie! (beautiful!)

Battle acts

AND YOU thought breakdancing was so last century? Wrong. For the first time, Pasifika features that particular art form spawned by American gangsta rappers during the 80s, now hybridised and Polynesianised by our own breed of spinners. "To do breakdancing is not to show up with a piece of lino and some sounds and that's it," explains Pasifika entertainment director Thelo Meleisea. "They have their own hip hop culture and they don't talk about breaking, they talk about battling. It's a gladiatorial event."

Which means a spectator-friendly event. Around eight teams such as Instance Movement and church-based Faith City Rockers will compete in 10-minute heats, through the day, with a series of workshops by experienced breakers like "Carleto" of Instance Movement.

"I did breakdance battles in the 80s but it's never reached its full potential here because of the way people perceive it," says Carleto. "We dance in a circle and people think a circle means a fight going down. It has always stayed on the street and I'm trying to take it up to a professional level and help people get a better understanding of hip-hop and the culture behind it all."

Carleto, whose crew have danced for Nesian Mystik and Ill Semantics, has eight people in his group, including his 9-year-old son Phoenix. Breaking, says Carleto, "builds self-esteem for kids. Just getting up shows confidence".

What: Pasifika Breakdance Battle

Where: Jandal Island, Western Springs Stadium, Saturday, 9am-4pm

Planet Polywood

ANOTHER Pasifika first, the Polywood Film Tent, showcases a series of short films by Polynesian directors, writers, actors and producers, and the programme is presented by Craig Fasi of the Moving Image Centre. The films, which loop through an hour and repeat through the day, are: Dot's Death, about a white woman married to a Tongan, written and directed by Stan Wolfgramm; Sima Urale's O Tamaiti, about a little boy in a Samoan family; Why Doors Slam in June, an experimental film about a lonely mother by Jason Siliva Taouma, who also made the programme's How to Cook a Taro; Popo Lilo's U'S'O'S, about a highly educated man and his tatau (tattoo); and Craig Fasi's Savage.

There will also be a special screening at 1pm with some of the directors and writers present for a discussion, and audience-DIY Mac editing of Pasifika footage filmed that day.

What: Polywood Film Tent

Where: Arts Arena, Saturday, 10am-6pm

The singing detective

ACTUALLY, more like the rapping police officer, Glenn Compain - aka "GC" - is the West Region's Pacific Island liaison officer who uses music to communicate with at-risk youth, and Compain reckons "all youth are at risk".

A musician for 12 years and a police officer for four, Compain attended high school in California where he was a top basketballer, a skill he has brought to a youth programme called Blue Hoops. He also works with Michael Jones in a programme named "I Can Do", which is also the title of a CD single he will release later this year. "I try to reach kids at the turning point, which is usually about intermediate age. But if I sang songs to them like Rhinestone Cowboy, they'd be turning their backs on me so fast. They can spot a fake a mile off. I've written about 200 songs and they are all about the problems kids face."

What: Glenn Compain & Krew; plus Nu Flava Styles featuring Glenn Compain and Bergette

Where: Contemporary Stage, Saturday

Opening night

YOU USED to have to be an invited guest to this event but now it's all free and open to the public. The idea is to give a taste of what's to follow the next day. It's a night that's hard to beat: the sunset, the lake, the trees, the bellows of the lions from the nearby Auckland Zoo and, of course, the bands. The evening kicks off with the very young (11) and very talented Theo Vaa, who some pick as our own Michael Jackson (in the nicest sense).

The emphasis is on music that's "smoove": Jamoa Jam and Pacific Soul, who have just toured Tahiti; breakdancers Qwik'n'Ezy, winners of last year's Aotearoa Hip Hop Summit; high-riders Nesian Mystik and NSync-alikes Jireh; the Tangi Kaara Ki Avaiki dance group, who feature a rather red-hot drum dance by the group's "mamas"; and the luscious Auckland City Community Choir, formed by Igelese Ete and Jepson Savali.

Oh, and an appearance by the "legendary" (as they say in showbiz) Yandall Sisters.

What: Pasifika opening night

Where: Western Springs lakeside, Friday, 7.30-9.30pm.

Wait, there's more

With four stages running through Saturday, it pays to wander. There's not only non-stop music and dance going off all over the place, the Arts Arena stage features comedy acts (FLEP by Rock Da Boat Productions; Samoa's "Eddie Murphy" James Nokise); jazz (Polysonic Showcase, Soul Artistry, Tama Waipara); and drama (Pacific Underground's Rangi & Mau's Fantastic Voyage, by Shimpal Lelisi).

The Chrisco Children's Stage under the Big Top features storytelling, aerobic programme Body Jam and a whole lot of music and activities.

And there is true-blue Pasifika music on the Cultural Stage by groups from Kiribati, Fiji, Tahiti and Niue, plus sets by Lapi Mariner, dancer Maryjane McKibbin and Darren Kamali, who'll be known to many Khuja Lounge habitues. But the Cultural Stage finale at 4.30pm is a 90-minute monster highlight which should not be missed: the only New Zealand appearance this year (aside from their Womad gig in New Plymouth) of Te Vaka, one of the most appealing "world music" bands this country has produced for a very long time.

Te Vaka last appeared at Pasifika in 1998. They are huge in Britain and Europe, where they are heading after these New Zealand dates, and are in the final three of a BBC Radio world music listeners' favourite poll (the result is announced on March 24). Says Te Vaka manager Julie Foa'i, "I can remember when we played at Pasifika a few years ago when it poured with rain all day. We were up to our knees in mud and it just did not matter. It is a very special festival and we love playing in it."

We are lucky to have them. When they go to Britain, says Foa'i, there is a strong likelihood they will be booked at the Glastonbury Festival and you can't say of many Glastonbury acts, "We saw them here first." That's Pasifika for you.

* Pasifika Festival 2003, Western Springs lakeside and stadium, Friday March 7, 7.30-9.30pm; Saturday March 8, 9am-6pm.