Paper Moon, Takapuna

Reviewed by JAN CORBETT for canvas

How frustrating it must be for a new restaurant to be continually compared with the old one that occupied the same site, but that has been the fate of Paper Moon since it opened in place of Takapuna's much-loved local, Turtle Creek. Some say it's as good as, I say it's a whole lot better. The only negative that has remained is that it's hard to hear a conversation above the din.

I began with the smooth and creamy entree of truffled duck-liver parfait, accompanied by a granny smith and quince waldorf salad mould arranged on a rectangular plate, with cubes of wholegrain toast ($13.90) and if I'd had to rush off straight after, I would have considered I'd dined well already.

My friend, having quizzed the waiter about the size of the seafood cocktail salad with chilli-spiked black tiger prawns, shrimps, grilled lettuce and smoked tomatoes ($18.90) was told it came in a martini-glass size, only to have it arrive in a pasta bowl. We must go back some time and order martinis. She pronounced it splendid.

Her char-grilled lamb rump with smoked cauliflower gnocchi and truffled spring peas $23.90 was equally pleasing.

My aged eye fillet ($27.90) - a more elegant rendition for steak, eggs and chips, came with fried quail eggs and pomme frits with the distinctly smoky flavour that Paper Moon seems to infuse wherever it can. It was fabulous but rich ... a third of it remained on the oblong plate.

From a comprehensive wine-list, we started with the Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc ($49.50), which was as dry as a craggy range. Coffee and dessert wine completed the evening.

Service could have been a little snappier, but it was certainly charming.

So Turtle Creek will not be missed after all, now that it has a superior replacement at still-reasonable prices.

Ambience: Casual chic

Cost: $156 for two entrees and mains, a bottle of wine and two glasses of dessert wine and one coffee

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.