Palazzo Roma

By JOHN GARDNER for canvas

There may be more unlikely settings for an Italian restaurant than an industrial estate on the outskirts of Drury (one set in a vineyard near Addis Ababa springs to mind - how's that for place-dropping?).

But the stretch of credulity on a cold winter's night at Palazzo Roma is demanding. The antique statues, rural furniture, bowers and leaves are more surreal than convincing and do not alter the fact that, basically, you are dining in a large shed.

But the food and service offer another proof of the frequently demonstrated rule of the inverse relationship between the splendour of a setting and the quality of the restaurant.

The imagination required to relocate from Papakura to Rome is equalled by a menu based in Italy but using New Zealand ingredients. The arrosto di maiale (baked pork) comes with honeyed yam smash.

Our choice difficulties were exacerbated by the presence, too, of the Monteiths' Wild Food challenge menu, where I reluctantly passed on hare faggot with air-dried boar bacon and piri piri smash.

We tried to favour the Italian mode, perhaps only partly successfully, as I don't remember seeing mussel fritters ($13) too often in the classic repertoire. However this dish with garlic and chives, considerably enhanced with the tang of a caper mayonnaise, was a good winter filler, if a little too solid.

Our other opener, an excellent twice-baked blue cheese and walnut souffle with chive cream, was one of those creative offerings which stud the menu here.

The simplicity of good Italian food was summed up in the pollo arrosto ($24.50) a plain but perfectly cooked chicken breast with mushroom and spinach. But the call of the wild got to me. It's a long time since I had goat meat ($29.50) and the idea of an untamed sausage had a certain appeal. It proved spicy and rich if, as I remembered, distinctly resistant to the teeth. The lentils and yams were a fine, earthy accompaniment, but I'm not sure the wild asparagus was worth the effort.

The desserts were a cut above the usual range. We went for a fine classic brulee, herb flavoured with rosemary, prettily and appropriately accompanied by a pot of lemon cream ($10.50). My saffron icecream ($10.50) rested in chocolate sauce and was accompanied by a shot glass of espresso muscular enough to keep my eyes wide open on the drive home.

The service was excellent, with the waitresses' arcadian hairstyles contrasting with their city efficiency and the droll maitre d' being a Kiwi version of those OTT Italian types.

The wine list is extensive, with some more unusual local wines sitting comfortably with their Italian cousins. We had glasses of a respectable Vin Alto Pinot Grigio ($8) and my switch to a Monteiths Original Ale summed up one of the more unusual but entertaining dining experiences.

Cost: Meal for two, including three glasses of wine and one beer, $131

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.