Out of the frying pan

Andreas Lindberg from Mudbrick. Photo / Supplied

What are the secret ingredients of being a chef and a hit on the culinary runway? Unlike the contestants in New Zealand's Next Top Model, it doesn't require a physical checklist (although we're not adverse to a bit of eye-candy in the mix). Of all the chefs I've watched perform on stage, the best always serve up some showmanship with their signature dish.

While high-jinks and drama have their place (searing the salmon with a blow torch, for one) the skilled performer blends a clever narrative with his starter. Audiences can't get enough of the witty repartee dished up by the likes of Martin Bosley and Simon Gault (both on the portly side but excellent chefs). And after 48 years of broadcasting, crooner-cum-chef Graham Kerr is still a crowd-pleaser, even after excising the booze and saturated fat.

There's a real affection for the Nice Boys of Celebrity Chefdom such as laid-back surfer Bill Granger and the soft-spoken Tetsuya Wakuda.

Here, we enjoy the understated charms of Michael Meredith, who prefers to let his food do the talking. Ben Mills from dine by Peter Gordon, even admits to "not being the greatest public speaker the world has ever seen". But don't challenge his cooking skills.

The ones we loathe and love are those who bring their "command and control" management from the kitchen to the stage. The Bad Boys who make headlines for wilful acts of defiance, or worse, physically assaulting their staff.

To add to his current woes, Gordon Ramsay is also being harassed for his food content. The Guardian has reported on new research claims that recipes from celebrity chefs like Ramsay and even Nigella Lawson are laden with "killer" fats linked to a disturbing number of health disorders. The report, The Guilty Secret of Celebrity Chefs, published last week by The Fat Panel, analysed the saturated fat content of a variety of recipes from popular cookbooks and warned that people eating them "could regularly be putting their lives at serious risk".

Naughty Nigella should stop encouraging her audience to dip and lick.

If you had to pick a showman from the list of chefs appearing at Taste Auckland, then Lennox Bull from Prego is the one to watch. According to his colleague and co-host Roberta Schmulian, he just "might throw in a bit of a modern dance recital" on the day. Now that could be a hard act to follow.

Lennox Bull - Prego

As a chef, how do you feel about being a performer?

A chef is a performer from the moment he or she steps into the kitchen, puts on the whites and ties up that apron. First, to conquer the mountain of prep within a few hours, then to perform in a busy service maybe two or three times a day. But to cook and plate to strict, timed deadlines while trying to achieve perfection on every plate are traits I consider part of being a performer. As in any industry you have some good performers and some bad.

How did you prep for being on stage?

Practise, practise, practise and more practise. A chef once told me when I first started in the industry to follow the six P's: Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance and you'll be sweet, and I hope that I have covered all my bases.

What's the most challenging aspect of creating a signature dish?

The challenge in creating a signature dish I believe is in the ingredients of trial and error, one cup of knowledge one tablespoon of style and a shit load of hard work is a challenge in itself. While acquiring the tools to create the perfect environment where this chosen dish can shine above all others without plagiarising another chef's work.

Are you planning to mix any drama with your dish?

Drama - who knows. We will just have to leave it in the hands of the culinary gods on the day.

What's inspiring about cuisine and the credit crunch?

It's forced people to think about the cost of living, in particular food. Increased customer numbers at the supermarket leads to more people cooking at home, making their lunches. People getting back to basics and giving it a go. With the amount of TV and media coverage on food, people should be more educated and confident in creating a wider range of meals than they were 10 years ago.

What's the next great thing on the plate?

Unsure what will be the next big thing on the plate. We are living in uncertain times ... maybe value for money?

Your most memorable moment in a restaurant?

With every restaurant, memories are created and Prego just happens to be its staff.

On stage are you more Gordon Ramsay or Nigel Slater?

Will not even attempt to be someone I'm not, you will just have to settle for Lennox Bull.

Phill Spathis - Harbourside

As a chef, how do you feel about being a performer?

It's my first time in front of a big audience, but I'm not worried about the size. I'm used to public speaking and I have done quite a bit of "show-and-tell" and once the team is under way I really enjoy it.

How do you prep for being on stage?

I won't spend hours perfecting a speech but I will think of something that will hopefully interest people. I tend to gather my ingredients and equipment and go for it... no dry runs, just go with the flow.

What's the most challenging aspect of a signature dish?

I have no problem with creating a signature dish - but at the end of the day it is the customers who will judge whether or not it stays on the menu. The better the response, the longer it stays on the menu.

What's inspiring about cuisine and the credit crunch?

Using totally in-season products keeps costs down and Jimmy Gerard buys our fish fresh from the markets daily - so we can keep our prices competitive.

The next great thing on the plate?

We're moving away from Pacific Rim and Italian dishes to experi-ment with Spanish and Turkish flavours - and the few things we've tried on the menu have been well received.

Your most memorable moment in a restaurant?

Celebrating 20 years of Harbourside last year was a great milestone. Gathering 200 present and past staff for a party and offering the punters the 1988 menu at 1988 prices was a lot of fun.

Andreas Lindberg - Mudbrick

As a chef, how do you feel about being a performer?

The crowd really dictates how you perform. I'll be sharing the stage with a winemaker so there will be a lot of food and wine matching.

How do you prep for being on stage?

Organisation is the key. In the past, I've worked alongside [Australian chef] Matthew Moran who taught me a lot about organising a fine-dining kitchen.

What's most challenging about creating a signature dish?

I try to reflect the local surroundings of Waiheke. We are surrounded by vines here at Mudbrick and my latest dish on the menu features lamb wrapped with vine leaves.

What's inspiring about cuisine and the credit crunch?

Suppliers improving their services and ranges.

The next big thing on the plate?

More local, garden produce. At Mudbrick we have one of the most extensive restaurant kitchen gardens in Auckland. The kitchen garden planting began about nine years ago and is a feature of the restaurant. We pick fresh vegetables, herbs and micro-greens every day from just outside the kitchen.

On stage will you be more Gordon Ramsay or Nigel Slater?

Andreas - I am my own person.

Roberta Schmulian - Prego

What's inspiring about cuisine and the credit crunch?

People are becoming more thoughtful about where they go to eat. I think Prego will do well in these times - we offer good food but it's not fussy, and the portions are good.

How are you accommodating customers with different budgets?

We're being savvy about the cuts of meat we're using at the restaurant - and exploring all the ways you can plate up a cheaper cut of meat. We're also looking at a greater variety of wines at more affordable prices.

Your most memorable moment in a restaurant?

Prego had an excellent 20th birthday party! It was a whole-day affair, with brunch and dinner sittings for our suppliers, regular customers and friends. We planned on cooking for around 700 people through the day and it was busy. I worked right through but we did get to enjoy the party.

On stage are you more Rachel Ray or Nigella Lawson?

Not Rachael Ray - she is super annoying! So I'll go with Nigella, minus the bosom.

Ben Mills - Dine by Peter Gordon

As a chef, how do you feel about being a performer?

To be honest I'm not the greatest public speaker the world has ever seen, but it's great to get the opportunity as a chef to take part in this type of event.

How do you prep for being on stage?

I've had a fair bit of involvement with some of Peter Gordon's cooking demos here in NZ. He has taught me a few tricks along the way.

What's the most challenging aspect of creating a signature dish?

Replicating the same flavours, textures and presentation over and over. Diners expect the same dish each time they return to the restaurant and the focus on consistency is key.

What's inspiring about cuisine and the credit crunch?

People still need to eat! As with any business, it is a challenge for all chef and restaurateurs to maintain market share in a recession.

What's the next big thing on the plate?

That's anyone's guess. Something fresh and tasty I hope...

Describe your style of cooking?

Forever evolving. I don't aim to steer in any particular direction. Provided the end product is pleasing to all, my style of food can be many things.

Sarah Conway - Rocco

How do you prep for being on stage?

I'm relying heavily on spontaneity!

What's most challenging about creating a signature dish?

Funnily enough, signature dishes are often not planned - they are elected into this category by the customers who keep demanding their return! Then the challenge is to keep producing them in identical form.

What's inspiring about cuisine and the credit crunch?

A lot of smaller producers are getting in touch with us about their products which is really exciting, and inspiring when planning our menus.

What's the next big thing on the plate?

Judging by the current success of our prawn cocktail, creme caramel and peach melba - a return of some retro favourites, perhaps?

What's been your most memorable moment in the restaurant?

Looking out of the kitchen across the pass at Rocco to see [famed Australian chef] Tetsuya Wakada having lunch!

On stage will you be more Nigella Lawson or Rachael Ray?

Because of my English heritage, Nigella wins!

* Taste of Auckland, 19-22 March, Ellerslie Racecourse. www.tasteofauckland.co.nz