Out of left field

2008 Coopers Creek Gisborne Gruner Veltliner 'The Groover'. Photo / Babiche Martens

When was the last time you were offered a glass of gruner veltliner? No, I don't remember either. I knew the wine existed, that it was a white from an obscure grape that did quite well in its homeland of Austria, and I knew at some stage we'd get together. Thanks to the vision of Coopers Creek Vineyard, which is pioneering the production of extremely left field wine styles, we have finally met.

Coopers Creek may well be on to something. There is only so much sauvignon, chardonnay and pinot gris you can drink before feeling your white wine experience is being dictated by the one-dimensional, beige wine police.

Gruner veltliner can be a complex beast. The Austrian model can veer between citrus flavours with spice, pepper and pear, and without warning can toss in flavours of rhubarb and green beans. It goes with an eclectic range of food. You can age the wine but it is best drunk young like sauvignon blanc and should be gently but not overly chilled.

Served too cold, the delicate and at times complex characteristics can be blurred. The Coopers Creek version is the first gruner veltliner made in New Zealand and sits comfortably alongside the label's rapidly expanding portfolio, which includes the very impressive and quite delicious arneis - not exactly a high-profile grape locally. There's more.

Alborino, the highly-perfumed, light, refreshing aperitif or seafood wine of Spain, will be making a grand entrance shortly. Winemaker Simon Nunns must be in a complete spin with all the experimental options.

Drum roll, please, for Coopers Creek as they lead us from the valley of too much of the same.

Recommended

2008 Coopers Creek Gisborne Gruner Veltliner "The Groover"
Medium bodied, tending dry. Interesting mix of flavours - perfect for rhubarb lovers - with lovely acidity and fine balance.
Price: $20-$22

2005 Coopers Creek Four Daughters Red Wine
Hawkes Bay blend of cabernet franc, malbec, syrah and merlot. Named for the owner's four daughters and designed to express their different attributes. Rich, dry and approachable - the wine, not the girls.
Price: $16-$18