Out damn spot

Freckles may look cute, but blotchy brown spots are rather less fetching. Photo / Getty

A smattering of freckles may look cute, but blotchy brown spots the size of a 20c piece are rather less fetching.

Clinique's national education manager, Tracey Pedersen, explains that hyper-pigmentation is caused by three main factors:

* sun damage

* hormonal responses to the contraception pill and pregnancy, with the so-called mask of pregnancy that effects some women usually fading over time

* acne scarring

In each case cells in the basal layer feel threatened and react by getting inflamed, leading to the production of an enzyme that stimulates hyperactive melanin production, leading to random patterns of pigmentation forming.

Pigmentation is more evident on fair skin, but by no means limited to it. Clusters can show up on Hispanic and Polynesian skin. Pedersen says African American actor Morgan Freeman, with his speckly cheeks, is a good example of the effect on darker skin. On Asian skin, pigmentation can sometimes appear akin to bruising, giving a shading effect.

"Ladies have always had pigmentation, but now we can do something about it," says Pedersen.

She advises against self-diagnosis, pointing out that an allergic reaction may be to blame and if skin is suffering from sensitivities but treated for pigmentation this might worsen the problem. Some brightening products contain hydroquinone and retinols are often used, but both of these can irritate some skins. A dermatologist can offer advice and monitor applications.

Pedersen says Clinique's Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector replaced hydroquinone with five antioxidants, including border silver, known in Chinese medicine to lessen the risk of reaction. She recommends skin analysis, such as that offered at Clinique counters to ensure you're getting targeted results from your skincare. Her final word of advice is that if you're paying for products to reduce pigmentation, then: "You should use a sunblock to prevent further damage."