Otto's

By CARROLL du CHATEAU for canvas

As Charles Dickens warned, high expectations are dangerous. But after all we'd read about Otto's, we were excited at the prospect of a truly classy dinner. Otto's dining room, which echoes the Old Courthouse that used to occupy this site, is a study in understated gentility. Tables spaced well apart, padded chairs and banquettes, plus seriously high ceilings, mean that no matter how full the place gets, or how overexcited the guests, Otto's never gets too noisy.

The menu is shortish but interesting (eight entrees, main courses and desserts) so we took maitre d' Tom Maguire's suggestion, and munched on hot rolls while we deliberated. Formerly of City in Lorne St, Maguire is one of the most gracious hosts in town.

The wine list at Otto's is also worth perusing, with its cellar list for connoisseurs. We chose a delectable bottle of Hugel Gewurztraminer ($70) to go with our fishy entrees. Although I was disappointed to see the small variety of scallop used for my Scallops served on salmon truffled potato and romesco sauce ($19.50), they turned out tasty, tender - and improved rather than overshadowed by the hint of truffle. Brian's seared tuna with caponata olive puree and pesto ($17.50) was "exceptionally good", again with flavours that complemented. Mary's cep dusted roast quail leg with black pudding, rocket and mango vinegar ($19) arrived topped charmingly with a tiny poached quail egg, though she couldn't quite get the point of the black pudding.

Next came a 25-minute pause between courses. While we realise people come to Otto's for a dining experience rather than a quick gobble and go, we thought this was overlong. So we just kept on quaffing until the herb roasted lamb ($30), salmon confit ($32) and baby chicken coq au vin ($31) arrived. The lamb was all right, rather than outstanding. The accompanying white beans were a little tougher than I've experienced before, and the lamb, while beautifully rare, was gristly in places. Normally I wouldn't mention it, but at the best restaurant in Auckland ...

Sadly, Mary's salmon, though mouth-melting, tasted like ordinary oven-roasted salmon. She also found the corn scampi custard rather tasteless. Brian's coq au vin on the other hand, was a delight - authentic in all but the tough bits you get with traditional old coqs, even those simmered in wine. Our seasonal greens ($6.50) were perfect.

By then we were flagging and decided to share a white chocolate and Bailey's Irish Cream parfait ($12.50). As with our entrees, it was outstanding.

Overall Otto's is a marvellous restaurant - elegant, sophisticated, beautifully run - and when you stray to the loo where the ladies in fishnet tights from a private party are slathering on more makeup, alluringly decadent.

Cost: Entrees, main courses and one dessert for three, plus one coffee, one camomile tea and one bottle of Hugel Gewurztraminer, $250

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.